Dogfish Head in Rehoboth raises the bar with Disney-like precision

When it comes to organization, management and training for food service, few big companies can equal the systems and procedures in place at the various Disney facilities throughout the world. In my former life in Washington, D.C., I had the pleasure of working for a time as a consultant for the entertainment division at the underground “city” beneath Orlando’s Magic Kingdom. I’m still in awe of the level of order and precision that kept (and still keeps) the above-ground services, attractions, restaurants and activities running smoothly and safely.

So you can imagine my surprise when the new GM of Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats in Rehoboth casually mentioned to me that his pre-beach occupation for six years was area manager of food and beverage at Disney’s Vero Beach resort. Ryan Schwamberger was responsible for maintaining the quality of a number of pool bars, banquet facilities and restaurants. Things have changed since I spent time with the Disney organization, but their food sanitation rules are even more stringent than before. Disney-prohibited bling and decorations include earrings (they can fall into the food), watches (food can splash into the nooks and crannies of watchbands, spoil, and then contaminate fresh food), and rings (ditto).

So it’s no surprise that Ryan’s experience with the entertainment giant has raised the bar at Dogfish Head’s Rehoboth Avenue restaurant/brewery. And this Disney influence extends to the kitchen with the addition of Ryan’s friend and new Dogfish Head Chef Kevin Downing. Kevin counts among his experiences the Flying Fish Café and Jiko at Walt Disney World, and the chef position at the California Grill atop the Contemporary Resort Hotel at the Magic Kingdom. (The monorail runs smack through the middle of the building. Fun!)

It’s no secret that Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats is all about the beer. And they’re the first to admit it. But in a high-profile resort town known for award-winning chefs and culinary successes, Dogfish Head had no intention of being left behind in the food department - in spite of the long lines pretty much every night. “Kevin has brought with him a new level of consistency,” says Ryan. “He monitors every dish that leaves the kitchen, and has added chef/sous chef-controlled expediting to our system.”

Expediting, or expo, is restaurant-speak for a specific station where every finished dish is inspected before it is delivered to the customer. Restaurants with expediters put out a more consistent product with fewer complaints. The late Matt Haley used to expo at his restaurants during the opening phase (I watched him do it at Matt’s Fish Camp). Sedona restaurant (in Bethany Beach) owner Marian Parrott can be seen almost nightly at the window (where the finished dishes are placed before being picked up) adjusting plates and occasionally returning one to the cooks for correction. Big Fish Restaurant Group relies on expediters at its successful properties (Big Fish Grill uses several). The expo is the last line of defense for your restaurant food.

The Disney organization emphasizes respect at all levels of the restaurant team. Quality people do a better job when they feel visible and respected. Both the late Matt Haley and Dogfish Head boss Sam Calagione are known for their close connection with their employees, and Ryan, Kevin and their team work to keep that camaraderie and spirit going strong at Sam’s Rehoboth installation.

So why is this a big deal? On a busy in-season day, the 175-seat DFH Brewings & Eats will put out 2,000 (yes, that’s two thousand) plates in one day. They go through 600 pounds of potatoes per day, and even employ a full-time potato cutter to turn those potatoes into Dogfish Head’s popular fries. They buy, cook and serve 35,000 fresh - not frozen - burgers per year. It might not be Disney numbers, but that’s a pretty big deal in the fourth block of Rehoboth Avenue!

Kevin, Ryan and the crew have given the menu new life with Kevin’s favorite Southern-style entrees, but they have wisely kept items like the popular crab and corn chowder (with bacon, yet!), the salmon sandwich (with blue cheese and garlic aioli) and the Dogpile (think nachos, but with artichoke dip and pita - a hot and tasty mess).

So there’s a lot more than beer going on there at Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats. The food’s been kicked up a few notches, and the even better news is that there’s not a Mickey Mouse-ears cap in sight!

Bob Yesbek is a serial foodie and can be reached at byesbek@CapeGazette.com.