Get the down-low on risotto

I was invited to present a cooking demonstration for my neighbors a few weeks ago and choose to make risotto. The term "risotto" comes from the Italian word riso which means rice. The suffix indicates something smaller or younger, making risotto a dish of “little rice.” In fact, arborio is the type of rice used for risotto; it is short, plump, and slightly oval-shaped with a pearly white exterior. 

I have always been a fan of rice, from the fragrant basmati and jasmine long-grain styles, to the nutty brown and wild rice strains. Most rice dishes are cooked in a similar fashion whether in an electric rice cooker or stovetop in a saucepan. Typically, the rice is added to boiling liquid (water or flavored broth), the pot is covered, the heat lowered and it steams untouched for anywhere from twenty minutes to an hour.

Risotto has a unique cooking style that is well-suited for the qualities of arborio rice. Because it undergoes less milling than other rice, arborio keeps much of its starch content. As it cooks, uncovered over relatively high heat, it releases its starch to create a firm, chewy, and creamy texture. When making risotto, the liquid is added a little at a time and the mixture is stirred constantly to draw out the desired starch.

The best pan in which to make risotto is one that is wide and not too deep. This gives the heat a chance to reach almost all of the rice grains and provide room to keep stirring the grains against the bottom surface of the pan. And, one of the aspects of risotto that came as a surprise to some of the audience is that takes about eighteen minutes from start to finish.

There are a number of variations in the ingredients found in risotto, but the basics are butter, olive oil, an allium (garlic, onion, shallot or leek), white wine, arborio rice, and grated Parmesan cheese. Another item on the list can be a vegetable, such as asparagus, or a protein, such as shrimp. Depending on how long the ingredient takes to cook will determine whether it’s sautéed in advance, or cooked in the final minutes in the pan with the rice.

For the dish in the photo, the first step is to set the kitchen timer to eighteen minutes. Then, a chopped shallot was sautéed in a mixture of butter and olive oil, followed by the addition of the rice, stirring to coat the grains. A quick deglaze with white wine and the addition of a bit of salt came next. Broth was added about one-half cup at a time, and the mixture cooked until the liquid was absorbed. 

This step was repeated until the seventeen minute mark, when a bit of butter and cheese are added, along with the asparagus tips. Once the pot was removed from heat and covered, you had only a minute before the creamy dish was ready to serve. If desired, you can also add some fresh herbs with the rice, I like to use tarragon for its complex flavor profile. Risotto is best served just as it’s cooked, as leftovers can become gummy if refrigerated

The final key is to avoid adding too much salt at the start, since the cheese can add more saltiness than you may prefer. I’ve never seen risotto made with any other cheese but Parmigiano-Reggiano, which is a highly regulated export of Italy. You’ll not want to use a container of pre-grated cheese, as these have been treated with anti-caking agents and will not give your dish the signature flavor of risotto.

I’ve included my recipe for the asparagus risotto, as well as one that calls for porcini mushrooms as the star of the dish. Remember, only eighteen minutes!

Asparagus Risotto

1 lb asparagus

1 minced shallot

1 T unsalted butter

1 T olive oil

1 C Arborio rice

1/3 C white wine

2 C chicken broth

1/3 C grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 T butter

salt & pepper, to taste

Rinse and shake dry the asparagus. Slice off the tips of the asparagus, about 1 inch; set aside and retain the stalks for another use. Sauté the shallot in butter and olive oil in a wide, heavy pan. Stir in the rice and cook for 3 minutes; pour in wine and cook until the liquid is absorbed. Add broth, 1/2 C at a time, stirring until absorbed before the next addition. After about 16 minutes of cooking the rice should be cooked (tender yet slightly firm). Gently mix in the cheese and asparagus until combined.  Add butter; cover and allow to rest before serving. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Yield: 4 servings.

Mushroom Risotto

6 oz porcini mushrooms

1 minced shallot

2 T unsalted butter, divided

1 T olive oil

1 C Arborio rice

1/3 C white wine

2 C chicken broth

1/3 C grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 T butter

Clean and slice the mushrooms. Melt 1 T butter in a skillet and sauté mushrooms until they release almost all their liquid; set aside. Sauté the shallot in 1 T butter and 1 T olive oil in a wide, heavy pan. Stir in the rice and cook for 3 minutes; pour in wine and cook until the liquid is absorbed. Add broth, 1/2 C at a time, stirring until absorbed before the next addition. After about 16 minutes of cooking the rice should be cooked (tender yet slightly firm). Gently mix in the cheese and cooked mushrooms until combined. Add butter; cover and allow to rest before serving. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Yield: 4 servings.