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A jug of wine, a loaf of bread - and maybe a meatball or two

September 12, 2016

Exhaustive research has led me to the conclusion that there is no shortage of Italian joints here at the beach. Some are certainly better than others, and locals can be downright passionate about their favorites. And I've got the clogged email box to prove it.

So grab your red-checkered tablecloth and candle wax-covered Chianti bottle, and let's get started. One of the new(er) Italian kids in town is DiFebo's Rehoboth at the corner of Baltimore Avenue and First Street. They replaced the rather long-in-the-tooth Adriatico that had been dishin' up pasta and meatballs for over 30 years. Co-owner and kitchen boss Lisa DiFebo Osias is no stranger to the kitchen, quite literally growing up in her dad's upstate restaurant. Don't miss the veal chop and pretty much anything with that red sauce. 

Just up the block a bit is Lupo Italian Kitchen. The addition of Executive Chef Chris Parks, along with a pretty muscular-looking pasta machine, is bringing crowds into the Hotel Rehoboth like never before. The delightful GM Meghan King tells me the Tuesday night half-price chicken parms will be back soon. Get the bolognese sauce on the side pasta. Trust me on this. 

Just around the corner, Ristorante Zebra gives upscale an Italian accent with their longtime favorite, cheese tortellini with pancetta and peas. And now's the best time to relax al fresco on their front porch. In Lewes, Mara DePace's Villa Sorrento in Lewes is about as "neighborhood" as you can get, and, as if clams with linguini and a good chopped salad were not enough, classically trained Mara is prone to bursting into song at the slightest provocation. If longevity is the measure of a good restaurant, then John DiLeo's Casa DiLeo at the very tip end of Rehoboth Avenue gets the nod for its neighborhood atmosphere and no-frills Italian fare. 

No mention of Italian is complete without Touch of Italy. Originally a tiny salumeria/pasticceria carryout on Baltimore Avenue, this wildly popular concept is now approaching its fifth incarnation soon to appear in the classic art deco bank building in downtown Milford. Like all their successful restaurant/deli combos, it will feature cases full of authentic Italian meats, cheeses, pre-prepared Italian goodies, pastries, cookies, breads - and this one's got a huge bank vault. Half-price chicken parm Mondays at Touch of Italy will return soon. 

The topic for this column isn't necessarily pizza, but I would be remiss if I didn't mention Pat's Family Pizzeria in Lewes. Though the place masquerades as a pizza joint with several varieties of pie, you don't want to miss the lasagna. Freshly baked to order (get a salad to keep you busy), it is certainly worth the wait. Co-owner Alex Kotanides takes the place very seriously, and their several Delaware locations are all owned and operated by family.

There are two eateries in lands far, far away that certainly deserve mention. The first is Mancini's in Fenwick Island, where Gabriel Mancini serves up huge portions topped with his Nonna's red sauce. Mixologist-in-residence, Todge, will recommend the perfect wine to pair with your crusty wood-fired pizza or Italian seafood platter. The other hidden gem is La Dolce Vita in Long Neck. This tiny neighborhood place reminds me of every Baltimore Italian joint in the '60s and '70s. Owner "Pops" Beddia glides from table to table, adjusting items and making sure everything is right. The Italian Wedding Soup is a sleeper, along with their delicious Italian sausage.

So as the days get cooler, cravings for Italian fare will naturally increase. And it's all right here, year-round, at the beach.

  • So many restaurants, so little time! Food writer Bob Yesbek gives readers a sneak peek behind the scenes, exposing the inner workings of the local culinary industry, from the farm to the table and everything in between. He can be reached at Bob@RehobothFoodie.com.

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