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Look for wineries that provide value across their product line

February 26, 2022

Kim Crawford has been a New Zealand bellwether winemaker for years. He sold Kim Crawford Wines to Constellation Brands in 2006. Sadly, the product has slipped with Constellation, but the marketing and gimmickry are world-class. Constellation even hoodwinked the U.S. Open tennis tourney to name Kim Crawford its “official wine” in 2019 and ‘20. The Crawfords moved on to Loveblock in 2007. Working from home, on the net, way before COVID, he bought juice while establishing an organic, sustainable viticulture property. Loveblock Pinot Noir from Central Otego Estate has been a top-value PN at $25-$30 since I began following it in 2011. My lowest McD score was 89. Good news, there is plenty of findable 90 McD 2018 around $26; I found 45 listings. Better news, the 2020 is wonderful for patient consumers. Cherry crimson, lovely ripe-cherry nose with violet, mushroom and barrel spice back notes. Dusty tannins and bright acidity support plum and cherry flavors with more spices. Finishes long and clean with mild tobacco notes, 92 McD. Those who enjoy Sauvignon Blanc, avoid sulphur and enjoy green tea may wish to try Loveblock Tee. Here, Crawford employed some added green tea tannin as an antioxidant and sulphur substitute whenever the wine was moved and exposed to oxygen. Certified organic. No chemical pesticides, fungicides, or additives were employed. The 2019, 90 McD, was an atypical SB. Not completely dry, pleasing trop fruit, citrus and herb flavors, higher balancing acidity, flint minerality with the green tea notes made for an interesting, different wine. As I expected, the ratings were all over the place. Previously named Loveblock Orange until 2019. The 2020 is an excellent accompaniment for Asian, avocado with citrus, and guacamole, and it pairs with asparagus, which is always a tough match.

Trisaetum wines just killed it with their 2020 Riesling ratings, scoring three 94s, three 93s and two 92s. Although I just wrote of their Pinot Noir, I have not sampled most new Rieslings yet. These folks continue to make wonderful Oregon wines from what I consider to be some of Oregon’s best PN and Riesling districts and AVAs, Ribbon Ridge and Dundee Hills. Most of their wines are small production. Joining the mailing list to buy a mixed case is a good idea. However, providing a blanket endorsement is always tenuous. Considering the recent vagaries of West Coast weather, it is fair to say Trisaetum provides value across its product line. Regulars are well aware of my disdain for producers who split production into small microclimate volumes to augment prices. Barbara and I spent quite a bit of time on the Trisaetum properties. In their case, it is warranted, and the prices are kept within fair-value range. They have a variety of soils and exposures that are markedly diverse. A several years’ run of top-rated sparklers, Cabs, PN, Riesling and recently Chardonnay attests that the Freys are excellent at allowing the terroirs to speak. No, they’re not relatives.

Anyone agree that all U.S. military commanders and pols should play at least a few games of Risk? It appears we may be about to engage in another war in a “far-off land.” I’m writing this Monday, with prayers in my heart. When I look at Vlad, a KGB monster with enough brains and media grasp to cause many to see him as a jovial, principled, good, forceful leader, I see Stalin in a Ronald Reagan disguise. He wants “Back in the USSR;” I guess the Beatles read Nostradamus. Xi Jinping is from the same deck, different shuffle. The recent unholy alliance of these two reminds of Adolf and Uncle Joe pre-WW2. Since 1859, with several exceptions, e.g., Bonus Army, Kent State, Waco, recent COVID-driven skirmishes and Ottawa, etc., we gather, march, yell, protest; cause traffic issues; break, burn and steal a bunch of stuff; kill a few and go home. Those two jail political opponents without trial (oops), and torture, maim or kill protestors (oops). ”It is in my (their) nature,” say the Tortoise and Scorpion in China, or Scorpion and Frog in western lore. Aphorisms, koans, paradoxes and parables become ubiquitous because they illustrate truths with a simple, usually entertaining, story nearly all can comprehend. Should I review vodkas or plum and rice wines next week?” Sad days indeed. 

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