Trisaetum wines were all well-made and fair value
In theory, Oregon, in winter and early spring is drizzly, cool and overcast, so we packed accordingly, dry warm for California, and unneeded rain gear, slouch hats and sweaters for Oregon. I’m delighted to report the West Coast weathermen and women enjoy the same degree of success in their predictive abilities as our locals. Mid 70s, clear blue skies, a hint of mountain mist early and 50s in the evening for eight straight days provided an early bud break.
The rolling hills and valley floor showed heaps of pastel colors, pale greens, purples, pinks, rose and yellows, and everywhere the dark, gnarly heads of vine roots peeping above the mustard and the trelliswork. The vines were tied, in most cases, and the buds had barely broken casting a pale green haze along the wires. Although I was well aware of the effects of terroir, there is something reaffirming when observing the varying degree of growth, based on elevation, exposure and temperature that is evident to the most casual observer signifying that wine from virtually the same geographic location can show a high degree of variation.
So let’s start out visit with a trip to Trisaetum, a well-appointed vineyard and winery tucked into the Chehalem Mountains on Ribbon Ridge.
Trisaetum Winery, Vineyards and Gallery is family-owned and operated by Andrea and James Frey. James is an accomplished artist, in addition to his winemaker’s skills, and has sold paintings worldwide. There is a wonderful gallery of acrylic paintings onto which the artist has incorporated dried vine cuttings and other detritus found in a vineyard. The effect is very interesting.
You can view much of his artwork at www.trisaetum.com/Gallery/Current-Works. Same rules apply gang, read the entire paper, ads and all, before moving to recommended websites. 2007 was the initial releases from this winery.
Trisaetum produces a wide range of pinot noir, some riesling and an interesting white pinot noir named Nuit Blanche, White PN. A lovely, very well informed woman, Alice Ingraham, provided us a complete, informed overview tasting. Alice also referred us to some terrific restaurants, and a nearby, neighboring, small producer, Aramenta, which was a grand visit. More on them later.
The Estate Reserve Dry Riesling, both the 2013 and '14 are killer. I’m saying mid 90s, when priced under $40, on both, with the 2013 getting a slight edge. Again, the wine I’m recommending will take a bit of work but well worth the effort. Paul Gregutt: WS loved it. So did we. Pale golden colored, well-balanced with a tad of residual sugar but enough acidity to support. Opens to lemon, grapefruit and clementine nose, which continue through, on a fruit sweet, acid balanced frame. These are full bodied with plenty of fruit but they finish with a pleasing, clean, mineral/acid lift.
The Estate Reserve PN are delightful; 2010 through 2013, you truly can’t miss. Big buck buckaroos would look into a mixed case. If you must choose buy the 12s; Tanzer said 93. Rare praise indeed from him, a guy who helped put Russian River PN on the map years ago. RP also waxed eloquent and as usual drove the price into the barely a great buy category. (The guy reminds me of Janet Yellin). The aromas were very impressive on the pour. Lovely, bright ruby colored with a complex bouquet of blackberry, barrel spice, cola, and chocolate, with a pretty floral nuance. The palate confirms the nose but add in some dark cherries, juicy liquor, smoky woodland and vanilla notes.
This is a very complex, structured wine and it finishes well, long and cleanly, with spare minerality and well-integrated smooth tannic grip.
In conclusion, Trisaetum wines were all well-made and fair value. I’m unsure what shipping costs might add, so I am reluctant to state an absolute price. Your friendly helpful wine store guy and gal need to eat also. Let them help on these. Excellent people. Excellent product.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
