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Try some Italians for summer food pairing

July 18, 2020

How many celebrated July 14th? Your faithful wine guy forgot a tickler last week, and July 14, Bastille Day, passed unnoticed <sigh>!  I was sampling some more Federalist wines from Mendocino, N. Coast USA. Federalist Chardonnay 2018 is one of their better vintages, McD 90. I have seen it for less than $190/case and $17/bottle. Those who enjoy Chardonnay with green apple, lemon and pear bouquet and barrel spice accents will love this. Secondary malolactic fermentation and plenty of lies exposure provides a buttery, round body. Crisp acidity cleans up the long finish. This is a lovely food wine and a delicious summer sipper. Please don’t drink it too cold; 65 degrees would be my choice. Their Bourbon Barrel-Aged Cab 2017 sourced from Lodi grapes is an interesting entry-level wine and won an 87 under $20. Spent 6 months in charred oak barrels. I reviewed the ‘16 previously. As expected, it shows fruit, smoke and vanilla bouquet. Their Dry Creek Zin Visionary Red is also worth a look. We enjoyed some with burgers on the grill. Try to locate the 2015 or 2018; both rated 89 McD. 

Recently I’ve been chided by the Italian contingent of readers: How about some Sangiovese, McD? Tenuta L’Impostino Viandante Riserva DOCG is a fine example. The 2012 rates 89, a tad pricey in mid $30s. The new release 2013, 91 points, will be a better choice. I would search out Poggio Stenti Tribulo Montecucco Sangiovesi Riserva DOCG 2015, $29, 89 McD. Look for red fruit, balsamic overtones and barrel spice nose. Nicely balanced acid/tannin frame supports all; 25 days on matte provides a bright ruby color with garnet rim. Long, clean finish shows vanilla and chocolate flavors, and the slightly elevated tannins say cellar me a few years.

I also had the opportunity to enjoy a nice Sicilian white, Grillo Cavallo delle Fate (Horse of the Fairies) Sicilia DOC 2019, 90 points around $16. This label from Tasca D’Almerita has consistently garnered 88-89 points since 2012. Tasca won European Winery of the year from Wine Enthusiast in 2019. I’ve written before that Grillo is a great choice with white fish and a salad with feta or a lemon and almond dressing. Summer black back flounder or sea bass also go very well. Those who enjoy Frito Misti will love the combination also. Another top-flight seafood white is Tasca’s Tenuta Regaleali Catarratto Antisa Sicilia DOC 2018, 90 points under $20. The vines are grown at 3,000 feet in one of the best-known historic areas of Sicily. Cool stainless fermentation provides a delightful floral nose of lily, peach blossom and tropical fruit supported by bright mineral acidity. Very clean finish shows melon and lemon notes. How about another red? Lamuri Nero d’Avola DOC 2016 is another Tasca product. Lamuri is Sicilian for love. So, what better food choice than spaghetti and meatballs? Dark ruby-colored, it opens to cherries, vanilla, herbs and tobacco riding a balancing acid/tannin/fruit frame on the palate. Since 2010, these have scored 88 or better, and the price has been consistent around $16-$18. The 2016 was above average, 92 McD, and it is perfect now. Nero d’Avola is also known as Calabrese. It is the most planted varietal wine in Sicily and until recently was primarily employed as a blending wine to provide color and tannins to blends. Those who enjoy high-tannin, medium-acidity wines will probably enjoy these.

Let’s close out the week with an American from Cakebread Cellars. Two Creek Vineyards Pinot Noir Anderson Valley N. Coast Mendocino will set you back under $45. The 2014 at 91 points or the 2017 at 90 points are good values at the price. The 2017 is dark raspberry-colored with an enticing bouquet of black cherry, raspberry, violets and roses. On the palate, concentrated flavors of strawberries and raspberries are supported by a balanced framework of soft tannins and appropriate acidity. There is a very slight saline mineral note, and the fruit repeats in the long, clean finish. The 2017 was made of free-run juice and aged 10 months in 41 percent new French oak, which is reflected in its price.

 

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