What makes a better biscuit?

Blame it on biscuits. For some reason, I had a taste for biscuits - light and fluffy, fresh from the oven and drowning in butter. I recalled the steam rising from large trays of freshly baked biscuits sold each morning at the New Orleans luncheonette across the street from my office. I’d never tried to make them, since they were so readily available at all the local eateries. And once I moved back north, I readjusted to the standard baking powder version.

What makes Southern biscuits so delicate? After digging through my recipe box, I found the reason for the difference: yeast. A tattered index card, covered with stains and a coating of flour, revealed the secret formula. Not only does the recipe call for yeast (proofed in warm water and sugar to make sure it’s still viable), but it also includes both baking powder and baking soda. No wonder they rise so beautifully.

Now I found myself wondering how these three leavening agents worked - time for a kitchen science lesson. Yeast is a living organism that remains dormant in a dried form; you can buy it in refrigerated jars or shelf-stable packets in the cake mix aisle. All it needs is moisture, food and warmth in order to grow. When the yeast granules are moistened in tepid (not too hot) water and fed with dissolved sugar you will see bubbles begin to form. The yeast are eating the sugar and releasing carbon dioxide which, when trapped in dough, will cause the dough to rise as air pockets form.

Both baking powder and baking soda are chemical agents. Baking soda, or sodium bicarbonate, works by neutralizing the acidic ingredients in the batter (also why it’s sometimes used to help settle an upset stomach). As soon as it comes in contact with the acidic ingredient, it begins to react and release carbon dioxide. You’ll find it specified in recipes that include sour cream, yogurt and buttermilk or sweeteners like honey, maple syrup, molasses and fruit. Avoid using too much baking soda or you’ll create a coarse, crumbly texture and a soapy taste. Those of you who’ve made red velvet cake have seen baking soda’s effect on cocoa powder: turning it a red color when baked.

Baking powder is a combination of baking soda, cream of tartar and cornstarch. Cream of tartar is the white sediment found on the inside of wine casks after fermentation. This acid crystal is purified and ground into a fine white powder; it helps with the second stage of leavening for double-acting baking powder. Cornstarch is used as a desiccant, absorbing moisture and preventing the baking soda and acid from reacting during storage.

Add too much baking powder and the batter will rise too fast, followed by collapse because the air bubbles have become large and unstable; when they break, the batter falls. You’ll know you’ve added too much baking powder when you notice an acrid, bitter taste. Add too little and the batter won’t rise properly, resulting in a dense, tough texture.

Some recipes will call for both baking soda and baking powder, typically when the acid content isn’t enough to leaven all the flour, so the additional action of baking powder is required. Banana bread is a good example of this situation: as bananas ripen, their acidity decreases; overripe bananas are ideal for making tea bread, but may not retain enough acidity for just baking soda alone.

Each of the three leavening agents has a key feature. Yeast needs enough warmth and sugar to work and usually requires at least an hour to rise before baking. Baking soda acts immediately and batters should be whisked together swiftly and baked right away. Baking powder starts working as soon as it comes in contact with liquid. Then, it reacts again when exposed to heat and the gas bubbles expand; these batters can wait 15 minutes before baking (perhaps while the oven is preheating). All three will work best when the dry ingredients have been sifted into a uniform consistency before any liquids are added.

Well, enough science, it’s time for some biscuits. Below are some of my favorite recipes, including angel biscuits, so light and fluffy, they seem to float - be sure to weigh them down with plenty of butter.

Angel Biscuits
1 package yeast
1 T tepid water
1/2 t sugar
2 1/2 C flour
2 T sugar
1 1/2 t baking powder
1/2 t baking soda
1/2 t salt
1/2 C butter
1 C buttermilk

Dissolve sugar and yeast in water. Stir gently and make sure bubbles form; set aside. Sift together flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large bowl. Cut in butter with two knives or a pastry blender. Add buttermilk and yeast mixture, stirring to combine thoroughly. Knead 3 or 4 times on a floured surface until smooth. Return to bowl, cover with a dishtowel and let stand in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour. Punch down dough and roll out to 1/2-inch thick. Cut into rounds with a round cookie cutter or glass. Place on an ungreased cookie sheet, cover with a towel while oven preheats to 400 F. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes until light golden brown. Yield: about 18 biscuits.

Baking Powder Biscuits
2 C flour
2 1/2 t baking powder
3/4 t salt
5 T shortening
3/4 C milk
1 T melted butter (optional)

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Combine the flour, baking powder and salt in a mixing bowl. Cut in the shortening with two knives or a pastry blender. Add milk and stir until it forms a ball.

Roll out dough on a floured surface to 1/2-inch thick. Cut into rounds with a cookie cutter and place on an ungreased baking sheet. If desired, brush biscuit tops with melted butter. Bake until lightly browned, about 10 to 15 minutes. Yield: about one dozen biscuits.

Scallion Cheddar Biscuits
2 1/4 C flour
2 1/2 t baking powder
3/4 t baking soda
2 t sugar
6 T butter
1 1/2 C grated Cheddar cheese
3 finely chopped scallions (green onions)
1 C buttermilk

Preheat oven to 425 F. Whisk together the dry ingredients in a large bowl. Cut in butter with two knives or a pastry blender until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir in cheese and scallions. Add buttermilk and stir until just combined. Drop dough into 12 rounded mounds on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake until golden, about 15 to 18 minutes.

Send comments, questions or recipe ideas to capeflavors@comcast.net.