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When buying California Pinot Noirs keep 2019 weather issues in mind

August 21, 2021

Have you heard of bioreactors? Among other applications, these produce real meat from animal cells in a series of very large, stainless steel petri dishes with lots of bells, whistles, gauges and valve stems, thereby avoiding actually raising and slaughtering animals, and the attendant negative attributes. Memphis Meat, oddly from Berkeley, Calif., has rebranded as Upside Foods. Gates, Branson, Sergey Brin, Cargill and Tyson are invested. Current production is limited to around 5,000 units/day. Forbes, Fortune, Rolling Stone, Bloomberg, WSJ, Vegconomist and several international media outlets are heavily supportive. Future Meat Technologies, an Israeli outfit, has just come on line. Some of their partners are ADM, Tyson, Emerald, and recently Nestle has stepped forward. They claim they will be to scale by 2023. When I get some product, I’ll provide a rating. Unlike the veggie burger guys who claimed their products were “just like meat,” and still aren’t, these folks claim theirs is meat. Another company, Good Meat Inc., a division of Eat Just Inc., is selling in Singapore at Madame Fan, whose alcohol list is named Sip and Guzzle. Had to get that in. Good Meat is trying for approval in the U.S. Some others trying to gain traction are Mosa Meat and Aleph Farms (collaborating with Cargill using 3D tissue engineering). It has petri’ed a steak from beef cells. For seafood, BlueNalu and Finless Food are exploring the process in California. By the way, I’m not dissing veggie burgers; some are quite delicious. They fill the needs of many who are animal protein avoiders. This vegan niche needed filling. As usual, the marketers of veggie burgers overstated their case, failing to recognize that a big, greasy, bloody burger is as unappealing to a wide audience as fresh Idahos fried in beef tallow, the fries that made Mickey D’s famous but no longer exist due to the scare tactics of the same guys that claimed margarine was better for us than animal fat. Oops!

Stonestreet Estate is run by Jess Jackson’s son Chris. The Upper Barn Chardonnay 2016 and ‘17 were highly touted by RP. They are selling around $100 and worth it for those who enjoy complex, buttery chardonnay from Sonoma’s North Coast Alexander Valley. If possible, buy the ‘16. The 94 McD Rockfall Cab 2015 is ready to drink if you bought some on my recommendation and kept your mitts off it. It still has plenty of shelf. Both the 2017 and ‘16 Stonestreet Estate Cabs are excellent values; 92 McD under $45 for a top-flight Alexander Valley 100% Cab, aged 19 months in 38% new French oak, is a bargain. Both are just entering their window.

Jewish high holidays are rapidly approaching. Rosh Hashanah will be observed from sunset Sept. 6 to sundown Sept. 8. Treat your family to a new release for the new year. Herzog Special Reserve Méthode Champenoise Russian River NV (MSRP $60), Herzog’s very first high-end Champagne method sparkling wine, is made from 100% RRV Sonoma Chardonnay. Check out their wine club, shop.herzogwine.com/wine-club-signup. Shoppers get free shipping and a substantial discount plus many other perks.

Although most Pinot Project wines come in below 86 points McD and are not reviewed, their 2019 Pinot Noir rated 90 McD and earned 2 price points as well. A very nicely put together PN under $12, terrific value. With pretty cherry-garnet color, it opens to roses and pomegranate, a well-balanced, fruit-forward wine with black cherry, earth and pie spice palate, and a long, silky finish. If you are a PN peep, I bet you will buy a case. Nelson asked about Olema PN Sonoma N. Coast. The 2018 and ‘17 rate 89 points, but avoid the 2019 due to weather issues. In this price range, Nelson, I’d prefer you buy the $19, 90 McD-rated Banshee Sonoma Coast 2018. Light garnet color, bouquet of red cherry and berry with barrel spice hints, cherry and red raspberry riding smooth tannins, and proper acidic frame. Other 2018s worth looking for are Sean Minor Sonoma Coast, 89 McD, $17; and Angeline Vineyards Mendocino PN 2018, $13, 89 McD. Be careful with Angeline; it’s seen a lot of lower scores in other vintages, and avoid 2019. Going a bit upscale to $55, try Martin Ray Hallberg Ranch Green Valley RRV, 93 McD, spent 1 year in French oak. Look for cola, cherry, rose bouquet; smooth tannins, medium body with black cherry and barrel spice flavors; alcohol slightly elevated at 14.5% but not problematic.

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