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Winemakers who understand food are worth following

October 16, 2017

OK, so the entire internet has been cracked open by hackers and governmental agencies. At the same time, we, the great unwashed are being pushed into using more electronic payment and now crypto currencies. What am I missing? Regarding crypto, they seem to resemble past Ponzi schemes and manufactured scarcity, like single-row production and fractionalizing great vineyards. Crypto's primary safety, according to perpetrators, is that data mining takes so much computing power and energy. In the next column over, in ubiquitous news outlets, are articles on the cloud, super computers and AI. I'm no computer whiz, but it occurs to me that this confluence negates the claimed reasons why crypto is secure. Banks, credit cards, loans, nearly all financial transactions, fuggedaboutit. If it is even close to true that Experian was hacked for more than 175 million SS #s, then everyone who has income is vulnerable. So far there is no fix. The federal government, the Federal Reserve System, and the Securities and Exchange Commission want to hold hearings but no one has a fix. I don't know about you, but my mattress is getting lumpy. Perhaps the next move will be "lip tattoos" or "eyeball prints" for all. Our New World is getting braver by the minute. Makes me want to drink. It won't be Screaming Eagle or Mayacamas, though. Take that to the Banks!

Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc Steen op Hout 2015 is a great buy under $12. A classic Chenin, free-run juice, not pressed, fermented in oak 10 percent, 5 percent new and stainless, left sur lie for six months before blending and bottling. All this attention to detail provides a pale, slightly green-tinged golden wine with a complex bouquet of herbs, apple, some plum and a hint of oak. On the rich palate, look for some tropical fruit, balancing acidity and mineral flavors which continue through a juicy, refreshing finish, 89 points McD.

Bob Lindquist is a terrific wine chef. Barbara and I enjoy roast lamb in all its forms, and Qupé Syrah is a standby go-with. This is a wine blended of juice from several vineyards, and Lindquist is successful in providing a similar profile in nearly every vintage we've sampled. The 2014 is a very solid 89 points. The new release 2015 is even better. I tried a 375ml, and here are my notes: ruby purple-colored, black cherry, blackberry and black currant, hint of smoke, licorice and barrel spice. On the palate, blueberry, caramel, vanilla, earthy. A tad tannic but plenty of opportunity to improve and works as counterpoint to lamb roast. Lindquist produces several renowned Syrahs, most of them running into the $35-$50 range. They are worth every penny, with all the usual suspects laying on big scores. In fact, Mr. Lindquist won a 2015 Rhone Ranger lifetime achievement award after receiving winery of the year awards annually from Wine and Spirits since 1999. Bob was one of the original Rhone Rangers, you see. Anyhow the Qupé Central Coast Syrah is a wonderful, inexpensive look at his winemaker's art. The 2015 is 91 points under $22. I think these are better than the 2012.

Ending on a happy note for those who are shoppers for value, how about Snoqualmie Whistle Stop Red? You know I love quirky names. One of Ste. Michelle's other labels, this can be found under $12. I first tried this label in 2011. The 2009 vintage won double gold and best of class at the San Francisco Chronicle competition, no mean feat. It was noteworthy that all the likely suspects rated it 87-88 points.

Too darn cheap, I guess. The 2014 Washington State Cab/Merlot blend has a pleasant bouquet of cherry, blackberry, barrel spice and vanilla. Nicely balanced, medium body, and the flavors follow the nose, 88 McD. Finishes dry and clean with hints of chocolate and tobacco. I am constantly amazed by Ste. Michelle. It continues to produce QPR wine that is affordable and enjoyable.

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