Mississippi cruise offers culinary treats with Southern spice

For those of you who may have noticed my column didn’t appear in last week’s paper, I was away on a week-long cruise along the Mississippi River, tasting flavors of the South. We boarded in New Orleans, where the boat was docked under a bridge illuminated with blue lights. After checking in, we stopped in our stateroom, then found our way to the River Cafe, where they were serving three kinds of pizza for an afternoon snack. It was a delicious way to start the trip.

Once we unpacked, filling all the cleverly designed nooks and crannies, we ventured out to the communal space called The Living Room. We settled into a comfy corner and enjoyed music played by a talented trio. As the dinner hour neared, we debated whether to go to the casual buffet or the more elegant restaurant. The appeal of the latter option won, and we were glad we made that choice.

The first course, a bowl of gumbo, was filled with spicy notes and hearty flavors. Barbecued shrimp and grits were the main course: Three huge shrimp, pickled peppers and a green onion garnish were a perfect taste of New Orleans. I’ve made a version of this dish in the past, and this was an excellent take on a traditional favorite. Since we were in the middle of Carnival season, dessert had to be a slice of king cake decorated with green, gold and purple sprinkles.

Over the course of the next several days, we had the opportunity to sample fried catfish (not sure if it was sourced from local waters), jambalaya, steamed shrimp, crab-stuffed beignets, black-eyed peas simmered with tasso ham, and some crispy-coated fried chicken. Breakfasts included puffy buttermilk biscuits along with grits and highly seasoned scrambled eggs. We sampled Sazerac cocktails and learned about local, artisanal bitters.

We attended two different cooking classes, the first about baby back ribs. The chef gave us a tip about removing the silver skin on the bone side of the rib rack. Instead of trying to take it off before cooking, allow it to remain in place, trapping moisture and flavor while the ribs cook. Once they’re off the heat, simply slip a knife under the skin (which will be slightly puffed up) at one edge and pull it off in one tug.

The story of Mardi Grad king cakes was more of a tasting than a demo, since the “instructor” was our cruise director, while the chef stood by to slice the cake. The tradition of these cakes began in the Middle Ages with the Jan. 6 celebration of the Magi’s arrival after the birth of Jesus. The French immigrants who settled in New Orleans brought along their tradition, which includes hiding a small figure of a baby in the dough. Whoever got the slice with the baby would be responsible for hosting the next party.

King cake is a ring of sweet, buttery pastry (similar to brioche) topped with colored sugar icing or sprinkles. Each color of the topping has a specific symbolism: green is faith, gold is power and purple is justice or royalty (remember, three kings arrived with gifts). Although the process of making a king cake isn’t difficult, it is time consuming, which is why most people purchase them from bakeries or grocery stores. We saw lots of them boxed at shops in the French Quarter of New Orleans.

I’ve included my favorite recipe for barbecue shrimp. If you choose to serve this, make sure you have plenty of crusty French bread for sopping up the spicy sauce. Although it sounds like a lot of butter, that’s the key to this rich dish. Resist the temptation to remove the heads or shells from the shrimp, as they add deep flavors to the sauce. You can serve this over steamed rice or grits, or all by itself in a wide, deep bowl. Enjoy the flavors of the South!

Barbecue Shrimp*

In a large skillet combine shrimp, Worcestershire, lemon juice, black peppers, Creole seasoning and garlic, and cook over moderately high heat until shrimp turn pink, about 1 minute on each side. Reduce heat to moderate and stir in butter, a few cubes at a time, stirring constantly and adding more only when butter is melted. Remove skillet from heat. Place shrimp in a bowl and pour sauce over top. Serve with French bread for dipping. *Adapted from Mister B’s Bistro.