April strawberries dazzle with color and flavor

When I sat down to write this week’s column, I looked back at my files to see what I had previously said about strawberries. There were more than a dozen columns, all of them dated in April or May of years past. In fact, in two of the years, there were two columns – it’s clear how much I love strawberries. As you can see from the photo, the newest supplies are deep red, and as I can tell you from one bite, they are sweet and juicy.

Let’s start with their name, which has nothing to do with straw. It comes from the Old English words strēow and berige, meaning “strewn" and berry. If you've ever grown strawberries you'll know they put out runners that spread all over your garden (or across your lawn), literally a "strewn berry.” In other European countries, their name translates as “land berry” referring to their ground-hugging habit.

Food historians are not in agreement about the origins of strawberries. Some believe they are native to North and South America, while other wild varietals are thought to have originated in Europe and Asia. No matter where they first appeared, they looked very little like the large, plump berries we see today. They were notable for their delicate fragrance and tiny, sweet berries.

Have you ever noticed how commercial strawberries often look perfect but sometimes taste less than wonderful? Over the last century, strawberry breeding has focused on traits such as appearance and shelf life. Berries that are large, bright red and firm enough to travel long distances are easier to sell, last longer in stores and stand out among other items, making them more attractive to consumers.

Here in Sussex County, we are fortunate to have access to local growers whose freshly picked fruits reach the market just as they’re ripe enough to leave the fields. Growers have picked strawberries by hand for thousands of years, and the best berries are still hand-picked to find the ripest fruit at the right harvesting time, making sure to keep their little green hat (calyx) attached.

Strawberry-picking machines have entered the market, but many cannot distinguish between ripe and unripe fruit, and berries are often damaged because of rough handling. As a result, these machines usually pick strawberries for jams and jellies rather than fresh fruit for the consumer to eat. Again, we are lucky to have growers nearby who offer their perfect berries at farmers markets and local roadside stands.

Now that you have all those red beauties on your kitchen counter or unwashed in the refrigerator, it’s time to decide the best way to serve them. I’ve always been a fan of adorning my morning cereal or yogurt with strawberry slices. They’re a wonderful addition to your spinach salad, balancing sharp feta, crunchy pine nuts and mild mushroom textures, as in the recipe below.

I much prefer recipes that allow the fresh texture and flavor of strawberries to shine, but this strawberry soup is a warm-weather treat, as well as a way to use up any berries that are less than picture-perfect. Enjoy the start of strawberry season!

Spinach & Strawberry Salad

1/2 C pine nuts
2 T rice wine vinegar
1 T lemon juice
2 t Dijon mustard
1/4 C olive oil
1 t snipped chives
8 oz fresh strawberries
2 C baby spinach
1 C arugula
salt & pepper, to taste
1 C sliced mushrooms
1/4 C feta cheese

Place nuts in a dry skillet and toast lightly over medium-high heat, watching carefully so they don’t burn, then set aside. Combine vinegar, lemon juice, mustard, oil and chives in a serving bowl; whisk to emulsify and set aside. Hull and thickly slice the strawberries; set aside. Place the spinach and arugula in the bowl with the dressing and toss vigorously to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add mushrooms and strawberries; toss gently to combine. Sprinkle with toasted pine nuts and feta cheese. Yield: 4 servings.

Strawberry Soup
1 qt strawberries
2/3 C water
1/2 C plain Greek yogurt
2 T buttermilk
pinch salt
1 t lemon juice

Rinse, drain and hull the berries. Set aside 3 berries and roughly chop the rest. Place them in a saucepan with the water; cook over medium-high heat until softened. While the berries cook, finely mince the reserved berries. Place them in a container and cover; place in the refrigerator. When the berries are cooked, remove from heat and use an immersion blender to purée. Allow to cool for about 15 minutes, then whisk in the yogurt, buttermilk and salt. Transfer to a bowl, cover and refrigerate until chilled. When ready to serve, whisk in lemon juice and scatter the minced berries over the top. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Strawberries & Brie 
1 small baguette
6 oz brie cheese
8 sliced strawberries
1 T honey
3 fresh basil leaves, shredded

Preheat oven to 350 F. Thinly slice the baguette on the diagonal. Arrange on a rimmed baking sheet in a single layer. Bake until lightly toasted, about 5 minutes. Remove from oven and flip over each slice of bread. Thinly slice cheese and cover each baguette slice. Bake until cheese begins to melt, about 5 minutes. Remove from oven and top each piece with strawberry slices, a drizzle of honey and shredded basil. Yield: 12 pieces.