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Chardonnay selections cover a wide range of styles

January 22, 2022

I wrote this on the MLK birthday celebration. His birthday was actually Jan. 15, 1929. It is a sad commentary that our three greatest leaders have moveable birthdays to accommodate long weekends. Dr. King’s messages were poignant (keen or strong in mental appeal). Sadly, they were ignored, and it appears we are actually sliding back into tribalism. Perhaps someday, folks will indeed be measured by the content of their character, and the Rev. Dr. King will be allowed to dream in peace.

For Chardonnay pals, Chalk Hill Sonoma Coast 2019, 92 McD points under $16, is a better choice than their 88-point McD Estate label and is half the price. I also preferred its value at a recent tasting which included Rodney Strong Chalk Hill 2019, 88 McD under $18, and 2016 RS RRV Reserve, 92 McD at $45. The RS Reserve was quite good and the aging is very helpful. Medium straw-colored, lovely mixed bouquet, tart apple, pineapple, wet stone, butterscotch and a hint of pie spice. On the palate, well balanced with slightly high acidity to carry the rich, complex palate of lemon meringue, apple, and barrel-driven oak and nutmeg notes. Coming together nicely. This is a quaffing chardonnay but works with cream sauces or well-spiced roast chicken. I don’t think Chalk Hill Sonoma Coast 2019 will rise to the RS Reserve’s level in three or four years. Lincourt Zoula Nunn Santa Rita Hills Chard is named for Bill Foley’s mom, and it is stunning for us big, buttery, old-style Chardonnay lovers. The 2018’s pineapple and vanilla cookie aromas lead into butterscotch, caramel, and creamy coffee with barrel-driven vanilla on a rich, almost unctuous frame, 92 McD around $52. Walter Hansell Cuvee Alyce RRV Chardonnay 2019 scored big, 94 McD under $40, but careful smart shoppers can find the 2016 at $52 RP and Galloni 95 points; its price popped and slid back. You will be well rewarded with any vintage of Alyce dating from 2014; all are 93-94 McD. 2019 is floral and herbal with citrus palate, 93 McD, $38, needs time. 2018 is right on the money for me. Ripe stone fruit nose with honey, barrel notes of toast and almonds, smooth, concentrated with lovely balance and very long mineral finish.

Aubert offered at least six 2019 Chardonnays. These ratings are by others, and the range was 97-100 points. Two were 99-point, single vineyard, from row 7, grape # 2, 17, 45  etc. Regulars know I despise the practice of such labeling to raise prices. By vineyard name, they are: CIX $200 and Hudson $175, both in 750 ml bottles. Four with 100-point ratings are in magnums (1.5 L): Hyde $499, Lauren Estate $499, Powder House $475, and Sugar Shack $475. Congratulations on the marketing trompe l’oeil. The telltale on these is they come in big and there is almost no price appreciation. Sell the sizzle! Honestly, I have not sampled any Aubert selections in several years. I can snap up Martinelli Three Sisters 2018, 95 points McD at $64; 2016, 94 at $64; or 2012, $60. Martinelli has not released its ‘19 yet. They don’t think it is ready. The 2012 Barbara and I had Jean Lafitte bring down the Delaware was awesome. Sadly, it disappeared. The children were still living at home when the Us were closed. If you aren’t interested in lightly reported current events, please continue to the rest of the wonderful articles in the paper.

A Winston Churchill quote from the crisis in 1938 should give today’s policymakers pause: “You were given the choice between war and dishonour. You chose dishonour, and you will have war.” Let’s pause and reflect, then ask our leaders not to solve fiscal and political woes with a conflict. Looking back through history should instruct that in most cases, the march toward war is propagated by economic conditions. Inflation is anathema, especially for the poor and middle class which make up the vast majority of people. In 1950, U.S. median family income was $3,300 and SS $49.50. In 2020, last data, average SS was $1,558.54. For wage comparison, go to U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics site, bls.gov/news.release/wkyeng.t03.htm. These are differentiated by age, gender and ethnicity. Keep in mind the 1950 family number does not say how many were included as earners. For a deep dive, grab a bottle of your favorite wine and go here: fred.stlouisfed.org/tags/series?t=income%3Busa. You may wish to have some aspirin nearby.

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