Even great wineries can be affected by weather quirks

How many spent the weekend hanging around? I was lucky enough to have a case of Natale Verga Prosecco, on sale for $118 with free shipping. Unnamed sources have claimed, due to the stupid Delaware laws that prevent our citizenry from acquiring alcohol from more favorably priced locales, I had smuggled it in. Sources alleged I had the case shipped to Grove Market in Maryland then snuck it home after work, in the dead of night. Fie on thee, co-opted snitch! If “Pete,” the Guv and their minions are reading, keep in mind most unnamed or suborned witnesses are probably lying to cover their own bad deeds. I found the wine on my porch in a brown paper bag, and I’m hoping the unnamed donor paid all appropriate taxes. That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it. The Verga NV is a great bargain at $11, a classic Prosecco with flavors of lemon, honey and almonds. The finish is well balanced and refreshing with a creamy mouthfeel, 87 plus 2 price points at the case price.

La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 2010 is lovely. It has just been released in the U.S. Many hyperbolic critics described the 2010 as the Tempranillo of the Century. Of course, they wrote this of the 2001 also. Although the 2001 is terrific, it is much easier to be “the wine of the century” in 2001 than in 2019. Rioja Alta 904 undergoes a complex process prior to bottling. It is stored in oaken barrels and racked every six months. It is typical for these wines to be made to cellar for a very long time. I was fortunate to find a 750ml for $58. A great bargain. Still quite dark, it opens to redolent mixed berry aromas, mostly blue, supported with toasted herbs, hints of lavender, and barrel notes of cedar and tar. I was surprised at the elegant, soft, polished tannins because, believe it or not, this is still a young wine. There is a bit of the typical Tempranillo dried fruit on the finish. However, the acidity balances it out and allows an elegant, drinkable finish. The 2010 will continue to improve and cellar for another 20 years.

The next-best vintages are the 2007 and ‘05. One minor problem with buying this label: It is very terroir-driven, and due to weather, some vintages aren’t up to the usual high standard. The 1998 was wonderful. There is still some of this 95-point beauty around priced $107. I think it has about 10 years cellar left. If you know about provenance, these are not wines to cellar. However, those who do may want to buy a ladder case of two each 1998, 2001, ‘04, ‘05, ‘07 and ‘10. You should be able to buy it around $850-$900 and allow your wine store pal a fair markup for their hard work. By the way, 2014 is now being touted as the best Tempranillo of the century by most of the likely suspects. Check out the writeups on the 2015 Vega Sicilia Valbuena 5. Again, a terrific wine, but Best of Century? Really! This label is well regarded but is also very weather-driven. The flacks keep the prices too high, in my opinion, around $125-$150 per 750ml. Spend your money wisely; buy Rioja Alta.

Can you name the first 100-point Bordeaux blend from Maipu Alto in Chile? Errazuriz Vinedo Chadwick was elevated by James Suckling because he thought the 2014 “to be of the same caliber as First Growths and top Napa Cabernets.” I think Mr. Suckling is a top-flight critic and writer, but that said, this phrase means little. While it is true that many first growths and Napa Cabs are top flight, where terroir rules, many relative turkeys flock. This type of criticism is not helpful to most wine buyers; even my wino pals won’t find it useful. Still, I had to try some. At $350 per 750ml, it didn’t work. I would prefer you buy four Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve Aconcagua Valley Chile 2014, 94 McD, $85. Dark ruby-colored with black fruit, a classical Cabernet where herbal aromas give way to blackberries and plums, slightly elevated tannins but balanced for a young wine. Proper acidity and barrel notes say store me. I found it a tad alcoholic at 14 percent but was undeterred.