Evolution taps a keg at Rehoboth Ale House

Evolution Craft Beer, a brew made for food, is now on tap at Rehoboth Ale House. Introducing his beer to patrons at a Thursday, Aug. 27 tapping party, Evolution co-owner Tom Knorr pointed to a glass of Exile Extra Special Bitter.

“That’s your meat-and-potatoes beer,” he said. “But this,” he said, pointing to a honey-hued glass of Primal Pale Ale, “you pair this with something lighter, like fish.”

Knorr, a Delmar-based restaurateur, said Evolution beer was made with a meal in mind.

“Instead of making a beer first, we sat down and determined what beer we wanted to make for specific food profiles,” he said.

The Lucky 7 porter, a beer so named for the seven different malts used in its brewing, goes well with chocolate desserts, Knorr said.

The beer’s evolution, Knorr said, is in its balance. He credits brewmaster Geoff DeBisschop with perfectly balancing the Exile, supporting the bitterness of hops with a strong malt backbone.

“It’s fresh and hoppy, but it’s not a hop bomb,” Knorr said. “He’s a very technical brewer.”

Lucky 7 gives a different take on evolution, Knorr said. The beer’s taste evolves the longer it spends in the glass – cool and smoky out of the tap, with sweeter tones that emerge as the beer warms.

Knorr owns SoBo’s Wine Beerstro in Delmar, formerly SoBo’s Wine Bistro.

He changed the name with the advent of Evolution and an increased emphasis on pairing beer with food. Echoing Dogfish Head owner Sam Calagione, Knorr said beer is the new wine.

“I love it,” he said. “It’s a great business.”

Since its founding in April, Evolution has spread throughout Maryland. Knorr’s tapping party at Rehoboth Ale House was part of a three-day tour through Delaware, meeting local restaurant owners and introducing his beer.

In addition to Evolution’s current roster, Knorr said the brewery has three new brews on deck. Lot No. 3 IPA will satisfy hop-heads, Knorr said. Rise Up Stout, a collaboration between Evolution and Rise Up Coffee in Salisbury, Md., is brewed with coffee. A Belgian-style pumpkin ale is also in the works.

Knorr said Evolution was 15 years coming. Prohibitive expenses kept him from investing until now.

It’s a good thing, he said – he’s more comfortable launching a brewing brand, knowing the ins and outs of the restaurant business. It feels natural. It feels like growth.

“I’m glad we did it this way,” he said. “And we’re killing it. It’s going really well.”