Here’s to a sparkling start for the new year!

Best wishes to all for a wonderful 2022. Blank out all the negativity that is current, and savor the joyous, hopeful parts of your lives. Perhaps some who were fearing coal socks neglected to lay in all their liquid supplies for a happy New Year’s Eve toast. I did another walkabout and located some lovely sparklers that are fairly priced and up to standard. Francophile sparkler lovers are certainly cognizant of the reputation of Taittinger. Too few U.S. winos are aware that some of the best Champagne houses “discovered” land in the Carneros region of Napa and Sonoma (Carneros spans county borders) was relatively inexpensive, with the proper terroir for Methode Traditionelle sparklers made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Although some French wine folks attribute the success of Domaine Carneros to the uniting of Kobrand and Taittinger, I point toward Eileen Crane, winemaker from its inception in 1978 to her recent 2020 retirement. Crane produced consistent-quality product. Her NV blending efforts were above reproach, and her true-to-terroir extraction and production of vintage wines provided a long skein of well-rated selections. Past columns informed DC as a safe go-to in most vintages and labels. I believe this is due to at least 95% of the juice being derived from their own vineyards. Chandon buys extensively from other regions. Perhaps I’m being a bit of a snob because the bought/self-grown is a matter of contention best settled in a tasting with kindred spirits. I am a DC fan, as regulars are aware, and will be awaiting with bated breath their releases for 2021-22. Ms. Crane’s work boots will be tough to fill. The still wines are under the auspices of a different winemaker and for another day. Other highly regarded Carneros sparkler producers which can be found on local shelves are: Mumm Napa Valley, Schramsberg, and Domaine Chandon, owned by the first French-owned sparkler producer in USA, Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton. It also has a piece of Newton Vineyard and Colgin Cellars. 

Shopping locally, these following can be found. Prices vary depending on location, but most are modest differences. Each producer has several levels, so read labels carefully. DC Brut Cuvee 2016 or ‘17, 91 McD under $35. You may see the DC La Reve 2012 around $115, 94 McD, aged nine years, therefore its higher price, latest available 2014. Those who enjoy yeasty, lees-driven flavors will enjoy it. DC Brut Carneros by Taittinger, Cuvee La Pompadour Brut Rosé 2017, 94 McD under $40. Light pink-tinged copper, mixed raspberry, strawberry, rose petal bouquet with mild citrus and toast accent. Active tiny bubbles, medium body. Finishes cleanly with some tangerine and saline notes. The DC Brut, any vintage 2014 through latest 2017 is worthy under $33, 91 McD except 92 points for 2016. Regarding 2017, WS posted, “Sleek and steely, with precise lemon, fresh ginger, blanched almond and strawberry flavors that build richness on a long finish.”

Sometimes I think the roughly $10 premium we pay for some Cali sparklers can be a tad overstated. Here are some well-made bubblies found in most locations closer to $20. Mumm Napa Brut Prestige NV can be had under $18, 89 McD; look for tiny perlage, citrus and mineral nose, goes well with salty and spicy appetizers. Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut NV is another under $18 that will please most palates; McD 91, it gets 1 price point. A good value. Look for baked apple and raspberry nose. New Mexico’s Gruet Brut NV, bright mineral acidity supports green apple, a touch of yeast through a long, clean finish, 88 McD under $15. Pour, taste, then show label. It’s a winner. Although Chateau Ste. Michelle was sold by US Tobacco, a subsidiary of Altria, to Sycamore Partners in November 2021 for $1.2 billion, the wine on the shelves was made under the CSM purview, third-largest premium winery in USA. I think Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut is a great entry-level sparkler with excellent bead, green apple and citrus aromas on a crisp, nicely balanced frame. Mimosas, yes, but it stands alone as an aperitif also. Priced under $13, 87 McD plus 1 price point. Thank you for all your comments. Happy New Year!