Kindle relights its flame in Lewes

Kindle, one of the Cape Region’s most popular restaurants, has a new home on Bank Street in the heart of downtown Lewes.

“We were closed entirely from March 1 until last weekend,” said Matt DiSabatino, restaurant co-owner.

The restaurant’s original location at Paynters Mill on Cave Neck Road opened in July 2007. The new location opened June 5.

DiSabatino and wife Ali, and Ian Crandall and wife Joanna Goode, relocated the restaurant in the building once occupied by Books by the Bay.

“We encourage people to come in casually. There’s a lot of outside seating and inside tables that won’t be reserved. We’re making sure walk-ins will be accommodated,” DiSabatino said.

The DiSabatinos own and operate Striper Bites in Lewes on Savannah Road, which they opened eight years ago. They also co-own Half Full, a gourmet pizza and wine restaurant on Market Street in Lewes, which opened in 2007.

DiSabatino said those who dine in any of the establishments know they’re in Lewes, yet the atmosphere is that of an urban or metropolitan setting.

“We want our places to have a comfort level where going out to dinner can be a spontaneous decision; you don’t have to plan your day around it,” he said.

The new Kindle has all the warmth of the former restaurant. Some elements from the previous location, such as lighting and wall partitions, have been installed in the new space.

Crandall and Goode trained at L’Academie de Cuisine, Bethesda, Md. Crandall focuses on designing Kindle’s first- and second-course menu and preparing those dishes.

He characterizes Kindle’s food as regional American with a French influence.

“No matter what I cook, those French techniques kind of work their way in and underlie all the cuisine,” Crandall said.

Favorite first-course dishes are spring leek and truffle tartine, rustic bread topped with melted leeks, homemade truffle ricotta, fresh goat cheese and mâche for $10, and Crab Norfolk, fresh Chesapeake Bay lump crabmeat and crispy Old Bay crackers for $16.

Among the Crandalls’ and diners’ favorite second-course dishes is the 20-ounce grilled rib eye steak with horseradish créme fraiche, crispy buttermilk onion strings and marinated heirloom tomato salad for $32, and grilled wild-caught Alaskan salmon served over a salad of French beans, radishes, pearl pasta, baby greens and avocado-Dijon dressing for $25.

Crandall and DiSabatino said the restaurant’s spring and summer menu features many new items as well as some dishes that were offered at the previous location.

Goode’s specialty is desserts, which she prepares in house from scratch. “Her hazelnut ice cream’s flavor is intense,” DiSabatino said.

Offerings include mango Mojito cheesecake brulée made with sliced Champagne mango and whipped Lewes Dairy cream; hazelnut ice cream served with fresh berries and milk-chocolate drizzle; and blueberry-apricot clafoutis, fruit-filled baked custard in a French tart with elderflower-yoghurt sauce.

Kindle, located at 111 Bank Street, is open from 5 to 10 p.m., Monday through Friday, and from 5 to 11 p.m., Saturday. The restaurant is closed Sunday. Reservations are accepted but not required. For more information phone 302-645-7887 or visit kindlerestaurant.com