Paging through a recent issue of Southern Living magazine, I saw an article in their Piece of Cake section titled Oldie but Goodie. The article was about olive oil cake, and there was nothing else written except a base recipe with two flavor variations and a couple of technique tips. Exactly how old is olive oil cake? According to food historians, it likely dates back to the ancient Romans and Greeks.

The abundance of olive trees in the Mediterranean region provided a plentiful source of olive oil that was used extensively as a culinary ingredient. Although originally featured as a holiday treat, olive oil cake has come into its own as a dependable dessert. This moist cake has a delicate crumb and tender texture, with the olive oil adding a subtle fruit essence to the background flavor.

Does it matter what kind of olive oil you use in a cake recipe? Absolutely. To begin, there are various grades of olive oil. These include extra virgin, virgin, pure and light, the names of which reflect how the olives are processed to create the oil. The most preferred is extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) because it has been the least processed (typically cold-pressed) and retains the richest flavor with very little acidity.

You cannot tell the type of olive oil from its color, as all types can range from light yellow to deep green, based on the variety and ripeness of olives used. The type called “virgin” is not typically bottled and sold as such, but blended with refined oils and marketed as “pure.” The type called “light” is not lower in calories, but lighter in flavor, with a higher smoke point than extra virgin.

Another feature to consider when purchasing olive oil is the source. It is not uncommon to read the back of an olive oil label and find a list of country abbreviations informing the consumer that this bottle contains olive oil blended from batches sourced in multiple places. A few brands of extra virgin olive oil proudly claim the single estate or region on their labels, giving the consumer greater confidence about quality.

It may come as a surprise to learn that olive oil can go bad. If it becomes rancid, it will smell waxy, like a box of crayons, and it will taste sour. Note the date of the harvest shown on the bottle, as well as the date you opened it. Try to use your bottle within three months of opening for the brightest, most robust flavor. Store the tightly sealed bottle in a cool, dark place.

The quality of an olive oil will also be reflected in the price of the tin or bottle (which should be opaque and dark in color to prevent light exposure from deteriorating the oil). I have paid more than $25 for a 250-ml bottle of single-source, cold-pressed, extra virgin olive oil from Italy, Spain or Greece. If you’re looking for a reasonably priced, good-quality olive oil in the grocery store, consider California Olive Ranch.

If you choose to make the olive oil cake in the photo, you don’t want to use an expensive, artisanal olive oil; save that for the final drizzle over a fancy dish or to make a salad shine. I opted for a commercial variety of extra virgin olive oil because I wanted the ingredient to be flavor-forward without breaking the bank. One of the benefits of an olive oil cake over a butter-based batter is that it comes together quickly with a whisk. And, if you’re planning to share the cake at a potluck meal, keep a slice for yourself, or you won’t know how delicious it tasted.

Lemon Blueberry Olive Oil Cake*

Preheat oven to 325 F. Coat the inside of a 9-inch round cake pan with nonstick cooking spray; set aside. In a small bowl, combine flour, baking powder and salt; set aside. In a large mixing bowl, combine sugar, lemon zest and grated ginger. Use your fingers to rub the mixture together to release essential oils from the zest. Whisk in lemon juice, olive oil, buttermilk, eggs and vanilla; stir until smooth. Pour into prepared pan. Scatter blueberries across the top of the batter. Bake until a tester comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. After cooling in the pan for 15 minutes, remove to a rack to cool completely. Dust with powdered sugar, if desired. Yield: 8 to 10 pieces. *Adapted from Southern Living.

Orange Olive Oil Cake*