Pea tendrils are a delicious spring treat

I’m enjoying a lovely bunch of pea tendrils from one of my favorite fresh produce purveyors, Hattie’s Garden. If you’ve never tried them, you’re missing a delicious spring treat. Pea tendrils are the tender young leaves and delicate shoots of the pea plant, all of which are edible. They smell a bit like sweet clover or watercress, with a slightly crisp texture, and taste like a cross between peas and spinach.

Pea tendrils are usually harvested from either snow pea or snap pea plants. This is the best time of year to find them at our local farmers markets, bundled in bunches of six- to eight-inch stems. California grocers and some specialty markets package them as microgreens in plastic clamshell boxes. After the growers harvest tendrils once or twice at the start of the season, the plants will sprout new tendrils that mature and produce pods filled with tiny peas.

When selecting pea tendrils choose the freshest possible, with thin stems, bright green color and no yellowed leaves. The wavy threads at the top of the stalk should be supple and lively, not dry or stiff. Store them in your refrigerator wrapped in a damp paper towel inside a plastic bag for up to a week.

Pea tendrils can be served raw in a tossed salad or pasta primavera, as a green bed for grilled seafood or as an edible garnish. When using them raw, trim off and discard any woody ends and thick stems. To make them easier to eat, without losing their form, chop them into two- or three-inch lengths.

When cooking pea tendrils, less is best; lightly steam or stir fry to soften them without losing their delicate crunch. When cooking, try not to overheat them into mush. They’ll cook in a flash in a very hot pan with a bit of olive oil and a splash of lemon. Chop them into an omelet or a broth-based soup to add rich spring color. Mince them with garlic into a stuffing for a rolled chicken breast or pork paillards.

You can also cook them without heating them directly. Try sautéeing sliced mushrooms and shallots in olive oil until softened. Then combine them in a bowl with the pea tendrils, mixing together the hot oil-coated vegetables to barely wilt the greens. A splash of balsamic vinegar adds a tart note to this crisp, warm salad. I’ve included a recipe for a slightly spicier version that incorporates hot pepper flakes; you can adapt the seasonings to your taste.

At lunchtime yesterday, I was almost at the end of my pea tendril supply, so I rummaged around for leftovers to combine into a stir-fry. Before long a bit of sesame oil in the skillet was hot enough to toss in chopped asparagus, cooked brown rice and pea tendrils. A splash of soy sauce and a sprinkle of sesame seeds completed the dish.

For an elegant entrée or filling side dish, I’ve included recipes for a risotto and a pasta that feature pea tendrils. Both would work well with roasted chicken, grilled salmon or pan-seared scallops. Next time a recipe calls for arugula or spinach, consider substituting pea tendrils for a bright taste of spring. And, on Mother’s Day this weekend, you can tell your mom she’s as sweet as a pea tendril.

Wilted Pea Tendril Salad

3 C pea tendrils
2 T balsamic vinegar
1 T olive oil
1/2 C sliced mushrooms
3 shallots, thinly sliced
salt, to taste
1/4 t red pepper flakes

Coarsely chop the pea tendrils and place in a serving bowl. Pour the vinegar over the pea tendrils and toss to combine. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and mushrooms, then lower the heat and cook until softened, about 3 to 5 minutes. Pour the contents of the skillet over the bowl of pea tendrils and mix together. Sprinkle with red pepper flakes and salt to taste. Yield: 4 salad servings.

Pea Tendril Risotto

1 1/2 C Arborio rice
1 1/2 C pea tendrils
1 bunch scallions
2 T olive oil
1 T butter
1 cup white wine
5 cups vegetable broth
salt & pepper, to taste
1/4 C parmesan cheese

Coarsely chop the pea tendrils and set aside; thinly slice the scallions, discarding the tougher green sections. Heat the olive oil and butter in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add the scallions and sauté until soft, about 3 minutes. Stir in the rice and mix thoroughly to coat grains with oil; cook about 3 minutes until rice glistens. Pour in 1/3 C wine and stir continuously while rice absorbs the liquid. Repeat twice with remaining wine. Add broth, 2/3 C at a time, stirring until absorbed; repeat with remaining broth, stirring continuously. After the final addition of broth is almost absorbed, mix in pea shoots and Parmesan cheese. Season to taste, cover and remove from heat; allow to rest for about 5 minutes. Yield: 4 servings.

Pea Tendril Stir Fry

1 1/2 C pea tendrils
1 C sliced asparagus
1 C cooked brown rice
1 T sesame oil
1/2 t soy sauce
sesame seeds
freshly ground pepper

Slice asparagus into one-inch lengths. Blanch in boiling water for 2 to 3 minutes; drain well and set aside. Coarsely chop the pea tendrils into thirds; set aside. In a large skillet, heat the sesame oil and add the rice. Stir in pea tendrils and asparagus; cover and steam for about 2 minutes. Season to taste with soy sauce and pepper. Garnish with sesame seeds. Yield: 4 servings

Penne & Pea Tendrils

3 C pea tendrils
2 chopped garlic cloves
pinch of salt
2 T softened butter
1/2 lb penne pasta
2/3 C sliced mushrooms
1 oz chopped prosciutto
grated Parmesan cheese
salt and pepper, to taste

Chop the pea tendrils into 2-inch lengths; set aside. Mash the garlic with salt into a paste; combine with butter; set aside. Place a large pot of salted water over high heat for the pasta.

When the water has come to a boil, add the pasta and cook about 7 minutes, until al dente. Meanwhile, heat half the garlic butter mixture in a heavy skillet. Add the mushrooms and sauté until wilted. Stir in the prosciutto and cook a few seconds; remove from the heat. When the pasta is cooked, drain and add it to the skillet. Place the skillet over medium heat, add the pea tendrils and remaining garlic butter. Cook until the greens have wilted, about 3 minutes, stirring to combine. Season with cheese, salt and pepper, to taste. Yield: 4 servings.

Send comments, questions or recipe ideas to capeflavors@comcast.net.