Squash season brings savory and sweet surprises

This is the time of year when squash harvests intersect: the final weeks of summer squash overlap with the appearance of winter squash. There are wide varieties of both types, with key differences between the two. Summer squash have thin skins and widely dispersed seeds in tender flesh, familiar examples include zucchini and yellow crookneck squash. They need to be handled gently to avoid bruising and their name comes from their prolific availability in late summer.

Winter squash, which are grown in the summer and harvested in early fall, include pumpkins, acorn, and butternut squash. The adjective “winter” in their name refers to their ability to be stored for months in a cool, dark place. Their skins are inedible, thick, and hard enough to resist even the sharpest knife blades. The flesh is firm and mild with the seeds concentrated in the center of a cavity inside the squash.

As you may recall from your early history lessons, squash has been cultivated in the Americas for thousands of years. Squash was introduced to the early European settlers by Native Americans, most notably as one of the “three sisters.” Corn stalks provided a trellis for the climbing beans and the squash vines shaded out weeds and helped the soil retain moisture. Early explorers, including Columbus introduced squash to Europe.

The earliest evidence of squash domestication was found in Mexican caves. Seeds, rinds, and stems dating from almost ten-thousand years ago were discovered by archeologists in the region of Oaxaca. The name of the plant can be traced to a Native American Algonquin term “ascoot asquash,” which roughly translates to “eaten raw.” In England, zucchini is called “courgette” and when they are mature (larger and less tender) they become “marrow.”

Anyone who has planted zucchini has had the experience of a bumper crop. There are countless jokes about neighbors stealth-gifting excess squash on nearby porches or the office break room counters groaning under the generosity of zucchini-growing colleagues. I have never turned down fresh zucchini, especially when grown locally. They are tender, tasty, and quite versatile.

While we have all eaten roasted or sautéed squash, it may come as a surprise to learn you can use zucchini to add moisture, texture, and delicate flavor to sweet dishes. I have made mock apple pie using sliced zucchini instead of apples and no one was the wiser. Flavorings like cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice convince you it is authentic.

Another good ingredient to combine with zucchini is chocolate. You will find any number of recipes that combine grated zucchini with cocoa powder or chocolate chips in cupcakes, brownies, and quick breads. Be sure the zucchini is young and fresh from the vine. Grate it on a box grater to create small pieces that will incorporate well. Avoid older, drier specimens, as you need the moisture for the recipe to work.

I’ve included a recipe for the baked summer squash in the photo that includes both zucchini and yellow crookneck squash tossed in olive oil under a crunchy cheese and breadcrumb topping. The chocolate zucchini cake is delicious served with a dollop of whipped cream or a scoop of ice cream. Happy squash season — next week we’ll feature winter squash. 

Baked Summer Squash

2 lbs summer squash*

1/4 C olive oil

1/2 C grated Parmesan cheese

1/3 C bread crumbs

1/2 t flake salt

1/4 t pepper

Preheat oven to 350F. Remove stem ends and slice the squash crosswise in 1/4-inch-thick rounds. Place in a bowl and toss with the olive oil. Arrange slices overlapping slightly in a 9 by 12-inch rectangular baking dish or 10-inch pie plate. In a small bowl, combine Parmesan, bread crumbs, salt, and pepper. Sprinkle the bread crumb mixture over the squash. Cover the baking dish with foil; bake for 30 minutes. Remove foil and bake another five minutes until the top is bubbling and crispy. *Note: for an attractive display, combine two different color squash varieties.

Chocolate Zucchini Cake

2 1/4 C flour

2/3 C cocoa powder

1 t baking powder

1 t baking soda

1/2 t salt

1/2 C butter

1/2 C sugar

1/3 C olive oil

1 t vanilla

2 eggs

1/2 C sour cream

2 C shredded zucchini

1/2 C chocolate morsels

Preheat the oven to 325F. Coat a 9 x 13-inch baking pan with non-stick cooking spray; set aside. Sift together flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a bowl; set aside. In a large mixing bowl, cream the butter and sugar until fluffy. Stir in the olive oil and vanilla. Beat the eggs into the mixture. Stir in sour cream. Add the dry ingredients and mix to a smooth consistency. Fold in the zucchini and chocolate morsels. Pour batter into prepared pan and bake until a cake tester is dry, about 40 to 45 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes before slicing and serve topped with whipped cream or ice cream.