Summer flavors shine in Caprese salad

As we near the end of August, the tomato harvest is beginning to slow down. Now is the time to collect all the lovely specimens we can find, both to enjoy fresh and to store so we’ll have bursts of summer flavor to brighten our winter menus. There are a few different ways to preserve tomatoes, from canning to cooking to freezing. If you’d prefer to avoid the hassle of canning, freezing is the way to go.

Some advise removing the core of the tomatoes if you’re planning to freeze them whole, but I have found this isn’t necessary. Simply rinse the tomatoes and place them on a cookie sheet in the freezer until hard. Transfer them to a zip-top bag and store them frozen until you’re ready to make some tasty dishes. When they defrost, the skins will peel right off and you can turn them into sauce, soup or barbecue sauce.

Alternatively, you can transform your ripe tomatoes into a puree in the food processor and freeze them in an airtight container. You’ll have the first step of a pasta sauce, tomato bisque or a flavorful addition to stews or braised dishes. Just keep in mind that this version of your tomatoes will not maintain the crisp, juicy texture of a freshly sliced tomato.

One of the quintessential summer dishes that features fresh tomatoes is Insalata Caprese, which you will likely find on almost every restaurant menu during the summer months. The name of the salad means “in the style of Capri,” and the recipe has just a few ingredients: sliced tomato, sliced mozzarella, fresh basil and olive oil, with a pinch of salt. The origins of this simple dish may come as surprise.

First, there is an apocryphal tale from shortly after the first world war. A patriotic bricklayer from the Isle of Capri wanted to honor Italy by creating a dish that used the three colors of the country’s flag, so he combined ingredients that were red, green and white. The more likely source is the Italian Futurist movement, which began in 1909. This group rejected many traditions, including one of Italy’s culinary mainstays, pasta.

In 1922, during a conference and art exhibition held at the Hotel Quisisana in Capri, then menu did not feature any pasta dishes; instead there was an unexpected offering of fresh tomato layered with mozzarella, scattered with basil leaves and drizzled with olive oil — a minimalist and nontraditional dish the Futurists applauded. As Capri became an international vacation destination in the 1950s, the simple dish continued to enjoy popularity that continues into today.

A key change has been made to the basic caprese: the addition of Balsamic vinegar or Balsamic glaze. For purists, this is not ideal, as the rich, sweet vinegar or its reduction can mask the essential flavors of the dish. But, as you can see from the photo, this presentation has become more common. Another change can be found in how the basil leaves are presented. Often, they are stacked, rolled, and sliced into ribbons, rather than remaining whole.

As you may imagine, there are all sorts of variations on the caprese salad, including the addition of fresh corn kernels, prosciutto, peaches or plums. Other variations cut the ingredients into chunks instead of thick slices. Be sure to select a high-quality, extra-virgin olive oil for best results. No matter how you choose to serve caprese salad, it is an ideal way to capture the bright flavors of summer.

Caprese Salad*

Thickly slice tomatoes and cheese. Arrange them overlapping on a serving plate, topping each tomato slice with a basil leaf and a cheese slice. Season to taste with salt. Drizzle with olive oil. Yield: 4 servings. *Note, if desired drizzle with a thin stream of Balsamic vinegar.

Fresh Tomato Sauce*

Heat the olive oil over low in a deep skillet. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add tomato puree, herbs and red pepper flakes. Simmer for about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve over pasta or use to make bruschetta. *Note, use a mixture of fresh basil, oregano and parsley for the herbs. This sauce can be made with either fresh tomatoes or previously frozen tomato puree.