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Wines to cheer up your Chanukah celebration

December 11, 2017

Last year I missed on my friends who celebrate Chanukah. This year I did some research, and following are some recommendations for wines that enhance various types of Chanukah fare. You will also find some advice on sparklers that will add to your festivities. Let's start with the most common food choices, primarily driven by a blurb from Ryan Griess at Pruder PR in NY. Off-dry Gewürztraminer spice enhances potato latkes with enough viscosity to support sour cream. I prefer Alsatian and had Hugel 2014 and Trimbach 2015; both are rated 90McD points around $22. Could not locate the Israeli Gewurz in our area. Those who prefer applesauce may wish to try a Sauvignon Blanc. Be careful to choose one that is dry with herbal notes. I found the Galil Yarden SB in Claymont. I was trained in a German restaurant. Initially. We sold potato pancakes and fresh-made applesauce by the half and dozens to the tune of a few hundred orders per day. The Galil (Yarden) SB 2014 gets 89 McD and the '16 gets 88.

For those who start or end with traditional Sufganiyot (jelly donuts), a Moscato was recommended. The closest location I found was State Line Liquors in Elkton selling a slightly sparkling Mount Hermon label. I did not drive there and therefore have no opinion. However, the 2014 was reviewed by WE at 88 points. If you have burned your tongue on the hot jelly (and who hasn't) and enjoy shopping, locate Patrick Bottex Bugey Cerdon La Cueille Sparkling Rosé, Savoie, France. This is light pink, bubbly and has a lovely pronounced strawberry flavor. Serve it crackling cold and chill down your palate. Kreston in Wilmington has it, so your local broker can get some. Time constrained may look into Barefoot Bubbly or Cupcake Sparkling Rosé.

For brisket, I like a Cote Roti or a well-made Cali Central Coast Syrah, when I have the $60-$70 price tag. As you know, even well-prepared brisket is on the fatty side. By sheer good fortune, I had the pleasure of a tasting with longtime friend Mike Riego, Prestige Beverage, and Peter Zemmer, a top winemaking guru and a very informative and enjoyable new friend from Alto Adige, Sudtirol, Italy. For those who ski, this is in the foothills of the Dolomites or Italian alps. One of Zemmer's wines, LaGrein Raut 2012, came across my sample table from Creative Palate. It was not readily available. However, my notes read 92 points. Did a bit of research and found some in NYC. Perhaps your local wine shoppe pal could arrange this. Maybe you have relatives coming to visit and they could smuggle some in. If not, prepare for the future and buy the 2015. This is consistently rated 88-90 points, so vintage is not the driving factor. That said, 2012 is the best recent and ready. Dark garnet-colored, it opens to a bouquet of violets, blackberries, and barrel spice. On the round, smooth palate, cured meat and tobacco notes supported by fruit balanced with appropriate acidity and tannins. Finishes long and cleanly with more spice hints, 91 McD; at $16 add 2 price points. Terrific value here.

On a different track, we also reviewed several of Herr Zemmer's whites. During a delightful luncheon at Bluecoast, we had the oyster sampler. Introduced Peter to a variety of oysters from the region and discussed the differences with him and Mike, a wonderful opportunity to do a side-by-side tasting that smart operators are providing. Growing up in NY, I had the bucket list opportunity of the Oyster Bar, a Grand Central train station landmark that no confirmed "arster" eater should miss when in NYC. Since I'm running out of space, Zemmer's Pinot Bianco Punggi 2016 and Pinot Grigio 2015 (dry, floral) both added to my oyster enjoyment. Both are great QPR. I was particularly impressed with Pinot Grigio Reserve Giatti 2015, which will be available in the spring. Place this on your wine-to-evaluate list. Zemmer has a "new" way of vinifying PG that looks like a sure winner. I will write more after it is released.

May we all be wrapped in the warm glow of the menorah. Happy Chanukah!

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