Wines from local and family connections to foreign roots

Congratulations to Harvest Ridge in Marydel, which was just named the winery in Delaware most talked about by Foursquare, in an article appearing in Delish. A cautionary note – the article also claimed Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch was California’s, a bit difficult to credit. I like to read Delish. In addition to informative articles, it has a wealth of recipes. I’m unsure how Foursquare arrived at its conclusion, but any favorable mention of a Delaware or regional winery is OK with me.

Grandpa Joe DeSole was a Sardinian. He was a legal immigrant, learned to read and write English, self-taught, became a citizen and loved the USA to distraction. His family were farmers near Sardiani, north of Cagliari, the capital. Sardinia is the second-largest island in the Mediterranean, about 200 miles west of Italy. Argiolas is the best-regarded Sardinian producer.

Whenever I see wine from Sardinia, I normally buy some. Usually I am satisfied. Argiolas Costamolino Vermentino di Sardegna 2018 was an excellent buy at $13. Vermentino is an aromatic, white, varietal grape that grows well in the Mediterranean climate. A term to describe a recurring aroma is macchia, which translates as a mixture of evergreens and herbs. Just as the garrigue (an herb or weed, depending on how romantic you are) aroma is often found in wines from Cotes du Rhone, and eucalyptus in Sonoma, the aromas are incorporated into the wine’s skin and juice from the surrounding vegetation’s exhaust. In addition to macchia, you will detect ripe peach, apple, and citrus notes. Don’t mistake the fruity palate for sweetness. There is plenty of acidity and a lovely medium body to frame it and clean up the finish, I give it 90 plus 2 price points. One for price and the second for Grandpa’s memory.

I sampled several vintages of Hope Family wines. Most of them were winners. Austin Hope Paso Robles Cabernets prompted me to leave a tickler to look into the 2016 after the hype passed. The ‘15 won gold. The ‘16 got 89 points, and the ‘17 got 90, but I trusted my own palate and preferred the ‘16. As expected, the 2016 has come off from $65 to $46. My notes for the 2016 read: Dark ruby color; huge nose, black cherries, currants and blackberries nuanced by violets and barrel spice, vanilla and tobacco. Fruit forward with cherries and blackberries repeating the nose and more barrel notes and caramel. Sufficient tannins as indicated by dark color, and a bright, balancing acidity supports all. I was a bit apprehensive at the 15 percent ABV, but this wine was so well made, with great body, it did not drink hot. Hope Family also produces several Rhone varietals; the 2013s are best: Grenache, 90; Syrah, 92; GSM NR and Mourvèdre, 94 McD, are all worthwhile Their Harvester labeled Cab is OK for its price, somewhere around $20.

I would be remiss not to mention that smart shoppers can get a case of Warre’s Vintage Port 2016, which all the likely suspects are touting (WS 98 and 2018 top 100). I reviewed it last year and advised hold your fire. Today it might be delivered to your door under $1,000 per case for 12 750s. For many, that is a lot of money. Those reading here are directed to the 2011, which rated higher and can be found for $865 or a six-pak for $486. Both are great SRP, ready in 2020 to start and should cellar 30 years. Novices wishing to learn about Port can check out Winston Churchill’s supposed favorite, Graham’s Six Grapes Reserve Ruby Port NV, a solid 90 McD that can be had under $20. Produced from Symington’s oldest vines from their five quintas, its object is to have the same profile year over year. Look for inky crimson color, opening to ripe dark fruit, cherries, a bit of smoke with a smooth, rich mouthfeel. Sufficient tannins and acidity keep it clean with a currant-chocolate finish. This is a terrific, favorably priced, entry-level Port. All that said, you owe it to yourselves to try a bottle of 2007, 2009 or 2011 Warre’s Vintage Port. I’ve seen the 2007 for $75 and a six-pak for $330, terrific bargains. My guru Jancis Robinson wrote, “Perhaps the wine closest to classic vintage port of all the 42 wines tasted here.” Her window is 2020-35.