Amaranth – an ancient plant with many modern uses

I have once again made a new discovery at the Historic Lewes Farmers Market. This time it was a colorful bunch of purple-and-green leaves with two different signs; one said “amaranth” and the other read “callaloo.” Which was correct? Of course, they both were. Let’s start with the first, amaranth, which is derived from a Greek word that means “never fading” or “will not wither,” a reference to the plant’s hardiness in harsh, hot environments.

The vendor explained that the plant was widely grown in the arid African climate, and further research revealed that similar plants from the same family were a common food for the Mayan, Incan and Aztec peoples. In religious ceremonies, seeds of the plant would be heated and popped like tiny popcorn. When Spanish conquistadors arrived in South America in the 16th century, they saw amaranth’s spiritual significance as a threat to Christianity and banned amaranth cultivation.

However, the innate vitality of the plant and the varied topography of the region allowed amaranth to survive, and it is once again widely cultivated. The leafy stems can be steamed or sautéed just as you would use chard or spinach, whose flavor profiles are comparable. However, one of the most familiar ways to use the leaves is in a dish called callaloo, popular in both the Caribbean and Africa, with endless variations.

Most recipes include garlic, onion and coconut milk along with chopped tomato to add color. Other, more elaborate versions include cod or crab and are more like a stew than a plate of steamed greens. I’ve included a basic set of instructions below, but you can always add more heat with Scotch bonnet peppers or change it into a main course with lumps of crabmeat. This is delicious served over rice.

There is another feature to the amaranth plant that has captured the interest of the health food market: the seeds. This dietary staple for thousands of years has begun to enjoy popularity as an ancient grain “superfood.” The tiny seeds are pale beige in color and smaller than grains of quinoa. Considered a nutritional powerhouse, the seeds are gluten-free, high in protein, and rich in fiber, antioxidants and micronutrients such as manganese, magnesium and phosphorus.

What does amaranth taste like? The adjective “nutty” is the first to come to mind, but other bloggers report it tastes peppery in some preparations. When popped and dressed with a little salt and butter, it tastes very much like conventional popcorn. Mixing puffed seeds with warm honey will remind you of Rice Krispies bars. You’ll find it sold in mixtures with other grains to bake or steam as a side dish.

You can buy amaranth seeds in specialty grocery stores or online, packaged either for planting or for cooking. Some of the familiar commercial suppliers of the food version are Bob’s Red Mill and Organic Grains. I’ve included instructions for popping the amaranth seeds as well as how to cook them into a breakfast porridge.

Callaloo

Thoroughly rinse the amaranth leaves. Trim off and discard the thick stalks. Roughly chop the leaves and tender stems; set aside. Heat the olive oil in a deep skillet; add the onion and cook until translucent, about 2 minutes. Stir in garlic; cook for 1 minute.

Add the tomatoes to the pan; cook until they begin to break down. Stir in red pepper flakes and coconut milk. Add the amaranth and cook until the greens are completely wilted, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve over rice, garnished with cilantro leaves. Yield: 4 servings.

Popped Amaranth

1/2 C amaranth seeds

Preheat a high-sided pot over medium-high. Scatter about 1 T of seeds evenly across the bottom of the pot. Seeds should begin to pop immediately. If not, the pot is not hot enough; they might burn and need to be discarded. Shake the pot when popping starts, and when it stops, transfer the contents to a sieve to shake out the unpopped seeds. Every tablespoon of raw seeds will yield 2 tablespoons of puffed seeds.

Amaranth Porridge*

Combine amaranth, salt and water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over high, then reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add milk and syrup, and stir until the porridge is creamy. Remove from the heat and serve. Yield: 2 servings. *Adapted from The New York Times.