Celebrate the arrival of local peas

During the final weeks of May, we celebrated the appearance of local peas, both at the Historic Lewes Farmers Market, some roadside stands, and on the shelves at Lloyds. The packaging used by Fifers Orchards seemed quite clever — lightweight plastic beverage cups with snap-on lids (see photo). The size of the cup left ample room to affix a warning label about how best to treat these just-harvested beauties.

The instructions insisted the peas be kept under constant refrigeration, washed before using, and consumed or frozen within 48 hours. Why so fast? As you likely know, peas grow inside protective pods. Once they’re removed from the pod or “shelled,” they are exposed to air and begin to lose moisture. And, as soon as they’re harvested, their sugar content begins to convert to starch, which detracts from their sweetness and texture. 

This rapid deterioration makes it difficult to mass-distribute fresh peas, which is why you will rarely see fresh peas in a conventional grocery store. On large-scale farms, peas are flash-frozen immediately after harvest and shipped to the freezer section of the supermarket. While not quite as sweet and tender as when fresh, frozen peas are a reliable substitute. Those not frozen will show up in cans or dried and sold in plastic bags.

Despite their delicate nature, peas are one of a small group of food plants archeologists consider “founder crops.” They originated over ten-thousand years ago in the region known as the Fertile Crescent, which is today southern Syria, Jordan, Israel, Palestine, Turkey, and the Zagros foothills in Iran. In the earliest times, peas were cultivated mostly for use in their dried form. 

It wasn’t until the seventeenth century that peas began to be known as garden peas (instead of field peas) and became a novelty to be consumed in their fresh, green form. Thanks to research in England to develop different cultivars, they began to be called “English peas.” Thomas Jefferson is reported to have grown over twenty-five different varieties of pea plants at Monticello.

The name for the vegetable comes from the Middle English word “pese,” which also referred to something small or insignificant. The dish known as “mushy peas” is a favorite in England that is usually served with fish and chips. Made from a starchy varietal called marrowfat peas, which are mature green peas that have been allowed to dry naturally on the plant. They are soaked overnight in water and then cooked into a thick, green paste, sometimes flavored with mint.

Nutritionally, the tiny pea is considered a powerhouse, loaded with protein, vitamins, minerals, and fiber. And, they were the basis of Gregor Mendel’s research into genetics. In the 1800s, this Austrian monk experimented with 22 kinds of pea plants making meticulous observations about the features of the different pea plants to document the rules we understand today about how features are inherited.

There are any number of ways to enjoy fresh peas in your diet. Toss them into a creamy pasta sauce or your next batch of curry. In addition to the traditional pea soup made with dried peas, you might want to try this version using fresh peas. Or, just steam them briefly in a skillet with sautéed shallots for a delicious side dish. 

Pea Soup

1 T butter

1/3 C minced onion

1 C vegetable stock

2 C shelled green peas

1/2 C half & half

salt & white pepper, to taste

creme fraiche, for garnish

Melt butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until softened. Add stock and peas; simmer until peas are tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool briefly. Whisk in half & half, then process until creamy in a food processor or with an immersion blender. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Serve warm or refrigerate and serve chilled. Garnish with a swirl of creme fraiche. Yield: 4 servings. 

Sautéed Peas

1 minced shallot

1 T butter

1/2 C vegetable stock

2 C fresh peas

salt & pepper, to taste

Melt the butter in a skillet over medium-low heat. Sauté the shallot until softened, just about a minute. Add stock and peas. Cover the pan and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Yield: 4 servings.