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Let’s look at some turkey-friendly wines for holiday dinners

October 28, 2023

After writing up Cabs last week, I was reminded of another wine chef who has made her mark. How about a $43 Napa Cab that rates 93 McD? Britt (Nichols) Richards fills that bill. Britt is a university-trained oenologist who has augmented her career working at Jordan, Chappellet and Keller Estate, and with such notables as Nicolas Morlet at Peter Michael Winery and Philippe Melka. Currently she is top toque at Recoltant, Altruria and Jack Tar. She has parlayed her wealth of experience and connections into becoming an exceptionally talented vinifier. Her 2021 Nichols Napa Cab was produced from a cross section of juices purchased from top names in Napa AVAs: Rutherford, Atlas Peak and Yountville, for example. Nearly black, ruby-colored, the 2021 is loaded with a complex bouquet of cherry, cassis, barrel spices, tobacco and mocha. On the palate, cherry, mocha and cassis continue with a pleasing vanilla back note. Proper acidity and integrated tannins support all. It finishes long and barrel spicy with chocolate and coffee. Those wishing to keep up with the top new-generation winemakers may wish to check out Scale Wine Group.

Let’s look at some favorably priced turkey-friendly wines I’ve been holding in my review queue. Attems Sauvignon Blanc Venezia Giuli IGT 2022, 89 McD, $14, is straw-colored, slightly herbal with tomato leaf, grapefruit and that Sauvignon Blanc foxy odor some find off-putting. Pour and allow it to breathe, and the smell purges itself. Bright acidity supports the fruit through its long, clean finish that shows lime flavors. Four months on lees at cool temperature provides body and avoids malolactic fermentation. The Attems Friuli Pinot Grigio 2021, also bright straw-colored, shows acacia, lemon and grapefruit with apple accent nose. I enjoyed the orange and almond flavor that appeared in its finish; 90 McD under $16. Their third offering was an intriguing bottle for the adventurous, the 2021 Attems Trebes Ribolla Gialla Collio. Floral, peach, orange and vanilla bouquet. On the fresh palate, peach and orange repeat with a hint of white pepper. Nice clean finish with some oyster shell and white pepper notes. Ribolla Gialli is a rare old varietal grape found in NE Italy in the Venezia Giuli, Alto Adige and Veneto pocket near the Dolomite Mountains, a region where, although it produces 15% of all Italian wine, 30% of Italy’s DOC wines arise. The area is noted for bucking the trend to produce overworked, huge, oaky, buttery, malolactic fermentation Chards during the ‘70s and ‘80s. This region stuck to its guns and continued to produce untrammeled reds and lean, aromatic white wines, highlighting natural fruit flavors with bright supporting acidity and mineral notes. Regulars know I do prefer those huge Cali Chardonnays. However, like most trends, it failed of its own weight when profit-driven powerhouses decided, if pattern change is good, more of it must be better. Remember the White Zinfandel craze? Thankfully, Friuli winemakers stayed true to terroir and provided a wonderful option.

Gianni Masciarelli, who died in 2008, was one of Italy’s top winemakers, named Italy’s Winemaker of the Year 1994. His 2001 Villa Gemma was winning mid-90s scores in 2001. He married Marina Cvetic, a star in her own right, whose wine I reviewed recently. Both were successful proprietors prior to their happy union. Cvetic continued to produce Masciarelli Trebbiano d’ Abruzzo. The 2022 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC, 90 McD, would be a fine introduction to your library. Trebbiano is a late-ripening white that provides characteristic flavors and aromas of citrus and orchard fruit. The 2022 shows pale lemon and opens to grapefruit, green apple and Bartlett pear aromas riding a bright mineral frame. Try with sea bass or cod with grapefruit juice-caper butter. The wine will provide enough acidity and flavor if substituted for the grapefruit juice. The Masciarelli Rosato Teatine Colline IGT 2022 is also a treat, 89 McD under $15. Look for roses and cherry nose. Flavors repeat the aromas on the palate. Cool fermentation keeps it bright and clean. Another reviewer claimed Bastianich Refosco Rosato 2021 was better at 4.4 out of 5; I rated it McD 85.

 

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