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Search out Syrah from Washington state for good variety

September 26, 2020

RIP, RBG. As an originalist, I was not a fan of several of Justice Ginsburg’s decisions on the Supreme Court. However, those I followed were well thought through and well written. She was indeed a luminary of jurisprudence and a tenacious defender of her positions. U.S. v. Virginia Military Academy, Olmstead v. LC were well decided. Her argument in the minority on Ledbetter v. Goodyear swayed me. Unfortunately, the opposition won 5-4. Generally, I thought she was right on her equal pay positions and later joined the majority on Artis v. District of Columbia which dealt with a similar issue. How long does one have to file after a grievance is discovered seemed to be the crux of the issue in both cases. Justice Ginsburg’s winning position on Laidlaw was well discussed. I followed it because of the water pollution issue which I thought Rehoboth treatment plant and sprayed waste could be causing; I lived in Bay Vista at the time. Her voice will be missed.

Want to thank Teddy from Greenwood who wrote a correction for me; he said, “...follow you in the Cape Gazette. I believe ‘Alvarinho’ is the Portuguese word for this varietal and ‘Albarino’ the Galician (I enjoy Pazo Senorans). Any way you look at it, pleasant. The more labor-intensive cultivation drives up the price so I enjoy ‘Picpoull de Pinet’ a varietal from Lanquedoc, ‘lip stinger.’ Good value.” I agree that both his suggestions are fine choices. The 2018 Les Costieres de Pomerols-BeauVignac Picpoul de Pinet from Languedoc-Roussillon, 88 McD around $9, is excellent. I saw some in Elkton, unsure if it is available locally. Avoid the 2017; the weather was atrocious in the region. The 2018 is very pale, nearly clear, with peach aromas. Fruit shows on dry, medium-bodied palate. Finishes with clean, palate-cleansing, lemony-bright acidity. Good with oysters.  

This week it is about Syrah. Our left coast wine folks are doing a wonderful job with these. I was more attuned to Rhone Syrah and Aussie Shiraz until roughly 2008. After reviewing Jamie Goode, I began a serious look into Syrah from Red River, Walla Walla and Yakima Valley, where most Washington Syrah was initially planted. Several comments dealt with how Syrah is more likely to follow terroir. Washington producers are alert to this. So, Syrah is regionally distinct and disparate in its styling. They claim it is this distinction that makes the wine more difficult to proselytize. Over time I have learned this to be fairly accurate. K Vinters (Charles Smith), maker of Kung Fu Girl Riesling, sold to Constellation Brands, also delivers Motor City Kitty, written up here recently. His Powerline Syrah goes well with middle Eastern, think lamb. Opens floral with roses and sandalwood; look for pomegranate palate. A more approachable Smith Syrah is Boom Boom 2016, 90 McD under $16. Won gold at San Fran Chronicle. Love its label. Look for red currant, raspberry and slightly elevated tannins that are just incorporating.

Reynvaan Family Vineyards In The Rocks Syrah 2016 will set you back about $100. I think it is worth it; 95 McD points. Redolent of black currants and raspberries, the palate is loaded with dark fruit supported by appropriate acidity and good tannic grip. You may have noted the 2016 tag. That is the best recent vintage for the region. Syrah loves cellaring. As usual, Chateau Ste. Michelle was very competitive with its 2017. Did you know they also own Columbia Crest label? I don’t know how, but their 2015 and 2017 both came in at $10 and rated 89 and 88, respectively. These folks are one of Washington’s best price/value producers that is available in many categories. I frequently am surprised at blind tastings how highly they rate. Usually they are in the wine under $10-$15 category. Columbia Crest Grand Estate is a solid 89-point Syrah for entry-level consumers. Chateau Ste. Michelle Syrah 2017, 88 points, $17 is another. Their Ethos Reserve Syrah at $56 is a bit of a reach. 2015 is $58 and 89 McD. 

Let’s close the week by wishing all our Jewish friends belated good wishes for Rosh Hashanah. To any who are aware, I would like to know the proper greeting. “Happy” seems inappropriate because the second day is Yom Kippur, the day of atonement. I would appreciate your informing me.

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