I have a subscription to a magazine called “homecooked,” whose editors have elected to forgo advertising in the pages of this glossy publication. Each issue selects a geographical area or specific city. Inside, the articles are about ingredients and the local cooks who turn them into favorite family dishes.

In each of the last two issues, I found an article about an ancient grain, used in two different ways. In Coeur D’Alene, Idaho, this plant, a member of the grass family, was prized for its gluten-free qualities, and in Louisville, Ky., its sweetness was front and center. With archaeological evidence dating from 8,000 BC in northern Africa to its arrival in the Americas in the 1600s, this has long been a staple food.

There are several ways you will find sorghum offered for sale. Grain and sweet sorghum are typically used in culinary applications, forage is used for livestock feed, and biomass is used in renewable fuels such as ethanol. If you want to purchase sorghum, several organic purveyors package the gluten-free, whole-grain, white groats. With hearty texture and mild nutty flavor, sorghum is an ideal substitute for rice, quinoa or couscous.

You will also find sorghum flour, which has a mild, slightly sweet flavor, ideal for gluten-free muffins, pancakes, cookies, cakes and breads. The last incarnation of sorghum on the menu is in the form of sorghum syrup, made by pressing the juice from stalks of sweet sorghum, then slowly simmering the liquid to reduce it into a thick, rich, amber-colored syrup described as “the love child of molasses and honey.” You’ll find it sold from mills in Tennessee, Kentucky, Indiana and Amish Country.

During the magazine’s visit to Coeur D’Alene, sorghum becomes the basis for a risotto-like dish featuring a variety of gourmet mushrooms. In Louisville, sorghum syrup was the finishing touch for grilled steaks topped with caramelized onions. However, the one version of sorghum that did not appear in either of these two issues is “popcorn style.”

Offered already popped and seasoned with flavors from curry to caramel to cheese, it’s described as a healthier alternative to popcorn. If you want to pop the kernels yourself, that is an option labeled “DIY popping sorghum.” The process is the same as you would use to make popcorn on the stovetop: heat some oil, add the kernels, cover the pan, and shake until the popping stops.

Sorghum is grown across Sussex County, primarily in non-irrigated fields. You may recognize the plant from the photo. Even in drought conditions, farmers can expect a decent yield, and there is sufficient demand for sorghum as both chicken feed and bird seed. Across the western United States, sorghum is widely grown for cattle feed, because it doesn't require a lot of water and can survive long, hot summers.

In the event you’d like to try making a dish with sorghum, I’ve included two recipes from homecooked, the mushroom risotto and the onion-topped steak. To purchase either the grain or the syrup, look at online sources, health food stores or gourmet food shops.

Sorghum with Mushrooms*

3 T olive oil, divided
2 chopped shallots
1 1/2 t salt, divided
2 pressed garlic cloves
5 1/2 C chicken broth
1 1/2 C whole-grain sorghum
12 oz mixed mushrooms, sliced
1/4 C dry white wine
1/4 C heavy cream
1 C grated Parmesan cheese
2 T butter
1/2 t pepper
salt & pepper, to taste
chopped parsley, for garnish

Heat 1 T oil in oven-safe Dutch oven. Add shallots and 1/4 t salt; cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook another 2 minutes. Pour in broth and sorghum; stir to combine. Bring to a boil over medium-high. Once boiling, reduce to medium-low, cover and simmer for 1 hour. Remove cover and continue cooking until all liquid is absorbed, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat, replace cover and set aside. Preheat oven to 325 F. Heat 2 T oil in a large skillet. Add sliced mushrooms and 1/4 t salt. Cook until mushrooms have absorbed all their liquid, about 13 minutes. Stir in wine and cook for 2 minutes, stirring continuously. Transfer mushrooms and any liquid to the pot of sorghum. Add cream, cheese, butter, 1 t salt, and pepper. Stir to combine thoroughly. Cover the pot and bake until thickened, about 20 minutes. Adjust seasonings to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with parsley. Yield: 4 servings. *Adapted from homecooked.

Steak with Sorghum Onions*

4 8-oz NY strip steaks
4 t Worcestershire sauce
4 onions
2 T olive oil
1 t salt
1/2 t pepper
2 T Balsamic vinegar
2T sorghum syrup
salt & pepper